a. Cluny and
b. Laces with a mesh base:
- Valenciennes,
- Binche,
- Malines,
- Point de Paris,
- Point de Lille,
- Chantilly.
The varieties in Group b may truly be called woven lace, because they contain a veritable tissue in which, tho the threads are combined in such a way as to produce more or less open effects, the opaque parts are woven regularly, that is as linen is woven. The pattern of the mesh of each of these laces is different.
- Valenciennes (sketch q.).
- Binche (sketch r and s.).
- Malines (sketch t.).
- Point de Paris (sketch u.).
- Point de Lille (sketch v.).
Further, Malines, Chantilly, Point de Lille, and Point de Paris are characterized by the presence of the bourdon, or heavy thread, slightly twisted, outlining all the details of the design.
Grammont, or Chantilly lace, is usually made of black silk thread. The mesh is the same as that of Point de Lille. In it the toile is replaced by the grillé, which adds greatly to the lightness of the effect.
r. Binche mesh