What to Eat, How to Serve it

by Christine Terhune Herrick

DINNER AT NIGHT

TWENTY or thirty years ago the late dinner was not nearly so popular as it is now. The majority of the people dined in the middle of the day, and not a few of them considered a six-o'clock dinner as an effort after fashion that was unworthy the imitation of sensible men and women. Even in large cities servants rebelled against an alteration of the time-honored custom of serving the principal meal of the day at or near noon, while in small towns the late dinner was so unusual that it was almost impossible to persuade domestics to consent to it.

A marked change has taken place in the fashion. The evening dinner has for years been steadily gaining in popularity, and promises to become even more common than it is now. Thoughtful men and women recognize the wisdom of eating lightly at midday, when they are in the full tide of business, and reserving the heartiest repast for an hour when it can be discussed leisurely and digested peacefully. Mistresses have learned that there is a gain in keeping the morning free for house-work, instead of devoting most of it to the preparation of the dinner. The light lunch eaten in most homes demands much less time in cooking and eating than does a dinner, and leaves those who have partaken of it more fit for work than they would be were their stomachs burdened with the task of digesting soup, meat, vegetables, and dessert.

The late dinner is a more dignified meal than can possibly be made of a similar repast eaten at noon. The festal appearance imparted by the gleam of candles, lamps, or gas upon silver, china, and glass cannot be acquired by daylight. The pleasant reunion around the board of the members of the family, whose positions and interests have been divergent since morning, the happy consciousness that the work of the day is done, the knowledge that there is no toil waiting at the door of the dining-room, all bear their share in rendering the meal cheerful and care-free. More ceremony can and should be preserved at the evening dinner than is feasible at noon. The orderly sequence of courses and careful serving have a part in adding to the dignity of the meal.

These suggestions should not frighten the housekeeper who contemplates introducing the late dinner in her household. Very little extra work is involved in bestowing the touch of state referred to, and, after all, it consists chiefly in a slight additional care in waiting and serving, and to these the mistress can readily accustom the maid.

The dinner-table should be spread with a plain white cloth, under which the sub-cover of felt or canton flannel must never be lacking. Any one who has observed the thin and sleazy appearance even handsome damask presents without this felt under it, and has noticed the noise the dishes and silver make when moved about where there is but the one thickness between them and the board, will not voluntarily be long without so simple and inexpensive an addition to the elegance of her table.

It is sometimes a rather costly luxury to keep a vase of fresh flowers always ready for the table. In summer it is comparatively easy, even in the city, to get a few blossoms every day or two; but in winter, with flowers at exorbitant prices, a single spray, renewed twice a week, is an extravagance which the housewife does not always feel she can afford herself. Cheaper and quite as pretty in effect is it to have a pot of primroses, or of cyclamen, or of some other hardy house plant that will bloom for two or three weeks, and of which the first cost is but small.

In setting the table, the knife and the napkin, with a piece of bread folded in the latter, should lie at the right of the plate, the fork at the left, the spoon at right angles to both of these; between the plate and the middle of the table, the glass, butter-plate, and salt-cellar near the point of the knife, within easy reach of the right hand. An extra knife or fork may be added for each course, where either may be needed. A plate must stand at each place, although it is usually removed to make room for a hot one after the family are seated and the dinner brought on.

The space in front of the hostess is left free for the soup-tureen, and before the host is spread the carving-cloth. The carving knife and fork are laid upon this. At the corner of the table stand the large salts, if these are used instead of the individual cellars, and the pepper-cruets. Near them are the tablespoons. The water-pitcher, or carafe, the ice bowl, and any relishes in the shape of jellies, pickles, etc., are all else that is put on the table at the beginning of the meal, except the soup tureen and plates.