For quoting purposes the weight of the yarn is taken at the market price, say that of the cloth No. 1—
lb. oz.
3 7 of 30’s T at 8d. = 2 : 3-1/2
2 13-3/4 of 36’s W at 8d. = 1 : 11
Weaving Price = 9-1/2
To this is added a sum sufficient to cover cost—winding, warping, sizing, power, miscellaneous expenses, waste (which sum varies considerably, and depends mainly upon the situation of the producers as regards the amount at which he can produce this cloth). Often, for lightly-sized goods, the weaving price is doubled, making this piece cost 5s. 9-1/2d. Should it be a dhootie, then an addition is made for coloured yarns for heading and border, and if a figured cloth extras are included for increased cost of production.
The examples given are supposititious ones, for, as has been said, the exact details of weight and quoting prices are decided purely by local or temporary position, and fixed data cannot be given as a standard for every case.
Stripe Patterns.
In case of stripes with two counts of warp yarn, for example, the number of ends of each must be obtained. If there are 38 stripes each of 15 ends, 40’s twist, with a ground cloth between each of 45 ends warp, 60’s T, separate calculations for each must be made.
38 × 15 = 570 stripe ends.
38 × 45 = 1710 ground ends.
Altering.
When the pick or reed is altered, the weight of the weft or warp is altered in proportion; when the length or width is altered, the weight of the piece is altered in proportion; when the counts of yarn are altered, the weight alters inversely proportionately.