Fig. 46.
It will be right here to explain what relation the extreme outside measurement of your work should bear to the daylight sizes of the openings that it has to fill.
I think we may say that, whatever the "mouldings" may be on the stone, there is always a flat piece at exact right angles to the face of the wall in which the window stands, and it is in this flat piece that the groove is cut to receive the glass (fig. 47).
Fig. 47.
Now, as the glazed light has to fill the daylight opening, there must obviously be a piece beyond the "daylight" size to go into the stone. By slipping the glazed light in sideways, and even, in large lights, by bending it slightly into a bow, you can just get into the stone a light an inch, or nearly so, wider than the opening; but the best way is to use an extra wide lead on the outside of your light, and bend back the outside leaf of it both front and back so that they stand at right angles
to the surface of the glass (fig. 48). By this means you can reduce the size of the panel by almost 1/4 of an inch on each side; you can push the panel then, without either bending or slanting it much, up to its groove; and, putting one side as far as it will go into the groove, you can bend back again into their former place the two leaves of the lead on the opposite side; and when you have done that slide them as far as they will go into their groove, and do the same by the opposite pair. You will then have the panel in its groove, with about 1/4 of an inch to hold by and 1/4 of an inch of lead showing. Some people fancy an objection to this; perhaps in very small windows it might look better to have the glass "flush" with the stone; but for myself I like to see a little showing of that outside lead, on to which so many of the leads that cross the glass are fastened. Anyway you must bear the circumstance in mind in fixing down your straight-edges to start glazing the work; and that is why I have made this digression by
mentioning now something that properly belongs to fixing.
