She held one in front of Lily to assess the effect. ‘Heavy silk in eau de Nil: fashionable colour without being outrageous. Green always looks right with coppery hair and a creamy skin. Slim fitting and sleek, but the shoulder straps are built up and embroidered with a Russian motif — very fashionable! And strong — you could go ten rounds with Jack Dempsey and they wouldn’t come adrift. I’ve got the sweetest little headdress to go with it.’ Her voice took on the modulated confidentiality of a saleswoman’s. ‘A cap of green and gold shot tissue with an overlay of oxidized silver thread, pearls, gold beads and bells, madam. Perfect on a heart-shaped face. Just dangle a gold earring on each side and you wouldn’t need anything sparkling with this outfit. That would be excessive. This delightful confection tells its own tale.’
‘In a mysterious voice carried on the east wind … It’s like a Dulac illustration for The Corn Spirit. But you’d need to silence the bells.’
‘That’s no problem … a drop of candle wax’ll do it. But it’s only a dress, love. Don’t get carried away. It was, in fact, not made up on spec — it was designed by me and the client herself with a special occasion in mind. She cancelled the order — “held up in Paris”, she said. The scandal sheets reveal that she has indeed been detained over the Channel — with a dark-eyed charmer! An Italian tenor, they say. Anyway, I’m left with a work of art on my hands. Now — if we’re being fanciful — I’m not sure in what accent this last one will speak.’
‘We’ll never know. I think probably it wouldn’t deign to address a word to us.’
‘You’re right. This really is haute couture. And discretion itself. I nicked the idea from the spring Paris designs. Coco Chanel inspired it though she doesn’t know that. It’s a bit of a gymslip but then you’d feel comfortable with that — cut and colour.’
Lily looked with approval at the midnight blue silk. A sleeveless bodice ran from the square neck smoothly down to a lowered waist delicately emphasized by a satin sash. The severity of the line was softened by the addition of an overskirt of navy tulle.
‘Well? What’ll it be?’ Phyl asked. ‘Princess of the Steppes or Saucy Gym Mistress? Want to try them both? Practise a few ju-jitsu moves in front of the mirror?’
‘No need. I know what I like and I’ve made my mind up,’ said Lily. ‘Get your scissors out, Phyl. I’ll take that one, if you’re sure that’s all right?’
Phyl hesitated for a second. ‘If you’re quite certain?’ she said. ‘Will the commander like it, do you think?’