The celebrated Monastery of St. Peter, founded by St. Rupertus in (about) 582, was, until the first decade of the twelfth century, the residence of the bishops and archbishops of the diocese. The present building was erected during the reign of Archbishop Max Gandolph during the period covered by the years 1661-1674. It can be visited, and the library is full of the most interesting and valuable MSS., early copper plate engravings, and consists of about 45,000 volumes and some 250 illuminated and other MSS., chiefly upon parchment. Several of the latter and some of the early printed books are practically priceless. The Librarian is always delighted to exhibit the treasures under his charge, and in him we found (as doubtless will all intelligent bibliophiles) a kindred spirit, and a most interesting cicerone.
THE MUSEUM
It is almost impossible in Salzburg, especially if one would really know something of the past life of the principality, and the city, to follow that excellent rule of avoiding museums. In the Salzburg Carolino-Augusteum Museum one finds so much that brings vividly before one other times and other customs. Although started but three-quarters of a century ago the Museum has already become a repository of the deepest interest, much frequented by students of all types, the antiquarian and the man of science. It was due to the initiative of Vicenza Maria Süss, one of the leading town officials at the period of its foundation in 1834. The work which he began was well continued and supplemented by that of Jost Schiffmann, the well-known Swiss painter, and an enthusiastic committee, largely to whose credit must be placed the excellent arrangement of the art and other sections of the collection.
One of the most interesting and unique features of the Museum is the suite of rooms furnished accurately and entirely in the style of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; of these one of the most charming is the "Hunting Room" with its fine oak presses, pretty recessed window, and trophies of the chase. In the Hall of Antiquities are many interesting relics of the Roman occupation of the country, and also in the Lapidarium. A most excellent idea took shape in the Hall of Industry, where are collected together many excellent specimens of various "masterworks" of iron, woodcarving, etc.
The Music Room contains some of the most valuable musical instruments of the last three centuries, including spinets, violins, and others, some of these priceless. In the Armoury are relics of deep interest of the terrible Peasants' War, including wooden cannon, crude swords beaten from scythes, executioners' swords, curious and cumbersome firearms, and some of the lances used by the Landsknechte.
The Costume Room has many attractions for lady visitors, who linger not only to admire the fashions of the past, but to inspect the embroideries which came from the industrious and skilful fingers of past generations of women, "old" with the dignity, grace, and charm which the "new" woman so sadly lacks.
On the same floor are the interesting Mediæval Kitchen, with its ancient and carefully kept copper and other utensils glinting at one from their hooks in the half-gloom of the recesses; the Ladies' Chamber, with its charming oriel, stained-glass window, colour of life of the period, and air of repose; the study, to show one the environment old-time students loved; a fine state-room; and a beautiful Renaissance Hall.
After these vivid reconstructions of the past one passes somewhat regretfully to the higher floor and prehistoric things. The priceless Celtic helmet, found in the Pass of Lueg, interesting though it is, seems "lifeless" in comparison with what one has just seen; as do somehow Roman statues and arms, and similar objects. And one needs the beautiful and richly ornamented panelling, oriels, and similar objects of the final room to bring back colour into things.
To visit and study this deeply interesting collection leaves one with a very good idea of the evolution of culture, science, and art during the last five centuries of the principality's history, one's knowledge of native art being easily further extended by a visit to the Kunstlerhaus near the Karolinenbrucke. Salzburg has produced at least one great artist in Hans Makart, who by common consent is esteemed one of the most vivid and brilliant colourists of his day.
In some of the villages near Salzburg, as also during "fair" times and festival times in the city itself, one is able to witness some of the quaint, picturesque, and dramatic peasant dances for which the valley of the Salzach has some reputation.