and not rings or swivels, which always rattle, and may disturb game. The above form has the further advantage of being stronger than the others. Always refuse to allow the gunmaker to fit stops to the hammers of any weapons intended for use against dangerous game. You may at a critical moment forget that the locks are bolted, or the bolts may have got loose and may have slipped into the hammers without your knowledge.
For rough shooting, especially in damp climates, have your rifles constructed for solid brass cases, or those covered with a thin coating of brass. These are less likely to stick in the chambers, and are not so easily damaged as the paper ones. Have your cartridges done up in small tins, hermetically sealed, packing a few of each kind you are likely to use in a separate tin, say fifty in each package. In this way you will be able to keep the bulk of your ammunition weather-proof. The contents of each tin should be stamped on the outside.
It is a useful plan to have loose-fitting flannel bags made for the barrels and stock of each weapon.
Perhaps the most convenient form of rifle case is ‘The Shikari’:
Fig. 20.—‘The Shikari’ rifle case
See that your case is made of strong sole leather, so as to be fairly rigid and capable of resisting pressure; for real rough work there is nothing better than oak covered with leather.
Rifle Sights.—No absolute rule can be laid down as to the best form of sights for sporting purposes. Generally speaking, the wider and the shallower the V in the backsight the better for snap-shooting, but beyond a certain point this shape makes it difficult to ensure taking the centre of the sight. The silver line or the ivory pyramid with which the standard is frequently inlaid very much assists in getting the centre quickly.
