As soon as the first round or tier of logs is laid, the floor joists should be set in place, notching them into the bottom side logs. If the building has a continuous masonry foundation, the joists may be set on top of it, as in a frame building.
In order that the ends of the joists may have sufficient bearing on the wall, it is necessary either to notch the ends into the side logs or hew the latter off on the inside. A simple method is to cut the notches in the side logs before they are rolled into place. Pole joists should be from 4 to 8 inches in diameter and hewed level on the upper side to provide a solid bearing for nailing the flooring. Several different ways of framing the floor joists are shown in [figure 10].
In laying the successive rounds of logs in the walls, several details must be observed to keep them lined up so that the top logs form a level seat for the roof framing. The corners should be kept as level as possible as each round is laid. This can be done by measuring vertically from the top of the floor joists, from time to time, as a check. A variation of 1 inch in height will not cause a serious difficulty.
The height of the corner’s is regulated in two ways: (1) By increasing or decreasing the depth of the notch, and (2) by reversing the top and butt ends of the logs when laying them in the wall.
The logs should be fitted together as tightly as possible. In the case of somewhat irregularly surfaced logs, it may be necessary to smooth off certain portions of the under side of the upper log to secure a tight fit. Only in exceptional instances, however, should this be done to the top of the lower log.
The face of the logs on the inside of the building must be kept plumb, that is, in the same vertical plane. An ordinary carpenter’s, or spirit, level may be used, but a 6- to 8-foot plumb board is considered most satisfactory because of its greater length.
The logs should be pinned together with a wooden pin or large spike ([fig. 11]). Spiking is done by boring a ¾-inch hole halfway through the upper log and continuing with a 7⁄16-inch hole through the bottom half. Then drive a 10- or 12-inch spike into place, or until it penetrates half the next log below. The spikes should be staggered in alternate rounds or tiers of logs. If wooden pins are used, fir or oak logs are preferable. Neither wooden pins nor spikes, however, offer interference to the settling of the walls.