We were delighted to leave the stuffy forest behind, and find ourselves back in the fresh air and breezes of Kabba. It was an uneventful march, my chief concern the catching of butterflies. We got one or two fine “Charaxes,” and greatly exercised ourselves over the moths that thronged the sweet-scented blossoms of the paw-paw trees at night.
We got back to Lokoja about the middle of July, having thoroughly enjoyed our trek, and, myself, feeling very pleased with my initiation into the methods of African travel.
CHAPTER III
Bida and Egga
We spent the rest of July and August in Lokoja—my husband, as usual, full of work; I, very busy gardening. We watched the building of the bungalow destined for us, and, as soon as the actual building was finished, we set to work, and made our garden, having the coarse elephant grass dug out, and turfy ‘dhoob’ grass planted instead. Numberless seedlings and cuttings were put in, dotted over the grass; we had scarcely one failure, and my seedlings are now respectable sized trees!
But trouble overtook us too—our dearly-loved little Irish terrier sickened and died, as did also my pony, ‘Mouse,’ who had carried me so gallantly over all those miles we had travelled. Both losses, I imagine, were the result of that ‘beautiful forest country.’
About this time the High Commissioner arrived, bringing Lady Lugard; they paid Lokoja a short visit before going on to Zungeru, and the real Coronation Day was celebrated. In the middle of August we moved into our new bungalow, and, for me, naturally, the days flew until the beginning of September.
My husband was very anxious to meet and confer with the Resident of Nupe, who was less able to leave his headquarters at the time than we were, and, as we were nothing loth to extend our acquaintance with Nigeria, we packed up, and started for Bida.
We went up river on one of the stern-wheelers, as far as Dakmon on the Kaduna River; there we found ponies, sent down from Bida to meet us, and rode in, an easy march of about fourteen miles. We were struck with the general air of prosperity and comfort displayed by the flourishing farms and neat little hamlets, and were rather amused to come upon a scarecrow, the first I had seen in this country.
It was a great day for Bida: no white woman had ever been there, and the Emir and his people were determined to do honour to the event; so, as we approached the town, a great concourse of people began to throng down the hill from the Residency. At the head of the procession rode Mr. Goldsmith, the Acting Resident, followed by the Emir, an immensely tall and stout personage, gorgeously attired, and having a State umbrella held over his head as he rode, and ostrich feather fans waved by attendants on either side. Behind him followed the members of his family and ‘Court officials,’ and the procession ended in a surging crowd, on horseback and on foot. They made an attractive picture, splashes of brilliant colour and snowy white robes and turbans dashing hither and thither, pulling up their horses suddenly on their haunches, with a great display of jingling brass and gaudy leather trappings, then darting off again, scattering the crowd like irresponsible butterflies! After the ceremonial greetings we all proceeded to the Residency, where more greetings ensued, and, on his dismounting, one could get a better idea of the vast proportions of the Emir—a truly huge man.