Excepting the wife of the master of a merchant ship, we did not meet with a single European woman here. Even those of the mixed breed were scarce, two or three only being encountered by us during our stay.
When the Portuguese go abroad to pay a visit or to take the air, they are carried by two or three slaves in a canvass hammock, suspended from a bamboo pole, over which an awning is extended to protect the rider from the sun and rain. There are excellent horses in the place, but very little use is made of them, neither carts nor carriages being employed by the inhabitants. The Portuguese, indeed, betray no activity, and appear to have given themselves up to an indolent mode of life, all their actions being redolent of laziness and apathy.
The population appeared to be numerous, but no signs of prosperity were visible. The dwelling-houses, small, dirty and ruinous, and built without order or symmetry, were scattered irregularly over the town. On each side of the quarter inhabited by the Portuguese two redoubts have been erected, on which some old iron guns of small calibre were mounted. The sentinels were half naked, and their muskets were for the most part without locks, so that they could only be carried for show. In addition to their muskets they carried long poniards or daggers.
A large plain extended to the eastward of the town, on which appeared an exceedingly high gallows. A short distance inland to the south-west the chief of the native inhabitants resided, to whom I would willingly have paid a visit, had it not been so much against the inclination of the governor, who pretended that the chief was seriously indisposed. A feeling of distrust on the part of the Portuguese was apparent throughout our intercourse with them, and they evidently wished us to hold no intercourse with the natives.
The land around the settlement is highly fertile, and fruit, which here as in other parts of India, is produced without the assistance of human industry, was plentiful; but culinary vegetables were very scarce. The land would produce abundantly were the indolent Portuguese to turn their attention to agriculture, or to encourage the natives to do so; but they prefer seeing the innocent natives carried off from their peaceful homes in the hills, that they may profit by their sale, to allowing them to better their condition by their labour and agricultural skill.
On two occasions some of the gentlemen of the settlement came off to pay us a visit, appearing to be much surprised by the interior arrangements of the brig. I had also invited the Governor, but he made some trifling excuses for remaining on shore. Having thus doubly requited the attention I experienced from these gentlemen, I made preparations for my departure, and sent the Governor a present of a thousand Manilla cigars, with a quantity of fishhooks, in return for which he sent me off some sheep, and a number of shaddocks. We therefore parted on the best terms.
Having now fulfilled the orders of the Governor of the Moluccas, we weighed anchor on the 6th of June, and were piloted out by the same lieutenant who had taken us into the roads. No fees being demanded, I presented him with some provisions and trifles, which were received with thanks. The day previous to our departure having been the birthday of their king, a general promotion had taken place, by which this gentleman had received the rank of first lieutenant, with a monthly increase of pay of three guilders, his salary now amounting to fourteen guilders per month.
The Portuguese possessions lie on the north side of Timor, and consist of several small posts or factories, the principal of which are Batu-Gede to the west, and Manatatu to the east of Dilli, the capital. On the west and south-west sides of the island the Dutch settlements are situated, the town of Coepang being the seat of the Residency. As this part of Timor was beyond the limits of my intended voyage, I steered a direct course from Dilli towards the Island of Wetta.
FOOTNOTES:
[6] A guilder is 1s. 8d. sterling.—Trans.