Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

According to an old adat or custom, the ships of the Dutch East India Company never anchored off Moa, but remained at Lette, whence the Company's servants were conducted to Moa by a chief of that island, who came over for the purpose; and as I did not wish to make an inroad into old usages, I made known my arrival to the people of Moa, upon which the chief of the village of Tombra came over to welcome me, and to offer his vessel for my accommodation during the proposed expedition. On the 21st of June I departed for Moa, accompanied by several of my officers, and followed by two of our boats carrying the detachment of marines, while a number of native prahus brought up the rear. Having a fair wind, we soon arrived off the west coast of the island, where we found a large crowd of the natives assembled, who gave us a most enthusiastic welcome. I cannot find terms to describe how gratifying it was to us to discover in all these islands, so sincere and unanimous a feeling of attachment towards our Government; for the long period, during which the friendly communication between these inhabitants and the Dutch had been discontinued, appeared only to have added fresh fuel to their attachment.

The part of the island at which we had arrived was due east from the village of Batu Mean, and no sooner had we stepped on shore than a number of litters, which had been prepared for us, were brought forward, when there existed no little commotion among the crowd, each wishing that the village to which he belonged should be honoured by our first visit. Here we took a kind farewell of the chiefs of Lette who had accompanied us, when they departed homewards amid repeated mutual congratulations. We now deposited ourselves in the litters, which were provided with curtains of chintz or coloured cotton; our own party, which numbered six, together with the chiefs, being carried in this manner, and as the crowd was very great, the bearers could change frequently during our tolerably long journey to the head village. Behind us walked the detachment of marines, and the domestics who carried the presents, so that our train had a very imposing appearance.

Our way lay, for the most part, over level uninhabited land, cultivated in some places, and in others overgrown with allang-allang, a sort of wild grass, growing to the height of four or five feet. The foot-path was narrow and bad, and this, combined with the heat of the sun, and the length of the distance, rendered the journey extremely painful, especially to our marines. We had left the landing-place at half-past eight, and owing to these difficulties did not arrive at our destination until one in the afternoon, and as this was too long a period to remain in the litters, we often relieved our cramped limbs by walking.

The villages of Roksali, Taynama, and Patti, to which we were journeying, are situated on a piece of high coral ground near the beach, and are separated from each other by high stone walls. We marched into the chief of these with drums beating and colours flying, and were received by the inhabitants with much friendship and confidence. One of the chiefs requested us to stay a short time under the shade of a high tree in the village, when he left us, and soon afterwards we were welcomed with much ceremony by a very aged native, who was entirely clad in an ancient European costume. He wore a large wig, a three-cornered hat, short breeches with large knee-buckles, and a coat with wide sleeves, ruffles, and spacious skirts; while on his feet he had high shoes, with heavy silver buckles: in short, he was clad after the fashion of the seventeenth century. This old man frankly offered us whatever the village contained, stating that men and goods were at our disposal; and declaring that our arrival had inspired him and his countrymen with the greatest delight. His joy was not feigned, for in many conversations which I afterwards held with him he gave most unequivocal proofs of his earnest attachment to the Dutch Government, and the sincerity of his feelings was undoubted, as, although he reasoned well, he yet gave proofs of great age having impaired his understanding; therefore he would have been unable to keep his duplicity concealed had any existed. This old man had once been governor or regent of the island. The whole population viewed him with the highest respect; they consulted him on every affair of importance, and his clear knowledge of men and things, coupled with his long experience, gave him a great influence over them. He had resigned his authority several years since, and his grandson, of whom mention will be made hereafter, had been appointed his successor, with the title of Upper Orang Kaya.

After I had remained under the high tree some time conversing with this worthy native, we were conducted to a Block-house, situated near the sea, which had formerly been the abode of the garrison left here by the (Dutch) East India Company. This building, which was tolerably large, and of great strength, was surrounded by a good stone wall, one hundred and fifty paces square, provided with several look-out houses, and four doors. Upon a board above the door of the house were cut these words:—"De Korporaal Duif heeft dit gebouw gesticht in het jaar 17..,"[13] the date was legible no farther.

The natives had preserved the Block-house in a good state of repair, out of regard for the Company (which term they usually apply to the Netherlands' Government,) and in the hope that they would once more be favoured (this was their expression) by the presence of a Dutch garrison. Even the bed places of the three soldiers, who had resided here, were left entire. On the occasion of our coming the entire building had been repaired and beautified, so that at the present time it was in a very serviceable state.

I will here give an instance of the nice sense of propriety shown by these people, at which I must confess I was surprised. No sooner had we expressed a wish to take a little rest than they all retired, no one coming near unless called for; while two natives posted themselves at the door, to inform those who wished to enter that we were not to be disturbed; and this was done without any wish to that effect having been expressed by any one of our party.

A family who went by the name of Duif, were among those who came to greet me on my arrival. The head of the family announced to me that he was the son of the Corporal Duif who had been entrusted with the erection of the Block-house, and that his father had married a native woman, from whom had sprung a very numerous progeny. I found here, as well as on the islands I had previously visited, that it is a mark of distinction to have sprung from an European. Those who have a mixture of our blood in their veins, are called "Anak Compania" (children of the Company), and they are not a little proud of the title, although it confers upon them no exclusive privileges.

Immediately after we had entered the Block-house, and our baggage had been brought in, the bearers and other natives retired, a chief and six others remaining, to attend to our wants. Meat, eggs, milk and Indian corn were brought to us, and with this they prepared a patriarchal meal, which was seasoned with kind hospitality.

The place where we had taken up our residence was situated on the south-west point of the island, close to the shore, where the reefs are steep to, so that here, especially in the rainy monsoon, there is a very heavy surf. On every point of the east side of the island there is good and convenient anchorage.