Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

Having thus, according to my instructions, done my utmost towards deciding their differences, and placing their affairs on a firm basis, I took my departure on the 27th of June for Roma, a hilly island, about twenty-four miles in circumference, lying about forty miles to the north-west of Moa. On the same day we arrived off Roma, and anchored in seven fathoms on a bank of sand, extending northward to the distance of about half a mile from Nusa Midta, a small island lying off the south end of Roma, from which it is separated by a strait about three miles wide. There is also a bay on the north-west side of Roma, in which it is said that there is very good anchorage, but that part of the island possesses a very scanty population, while the uncleared state of the country renders it difficult to perform a journey to the chief villages, all of which are situated on the more southern parts of the island. On the south-west side of Roma, immediately opposite to the north end of Nusa-Midta, lies a fine and fertile valley, through which runs a small river. In the west monsoon there is good anchorage for a vessel opposite the mouth of this river, from which abundance of timber and fire-wood, and good water, may be obtained. On all the other sides of the island the shores are steep and rocky, on which beats a heavy surf, rendering the landing from boats extremely difficult.

The population of Roma is not very great. The inhabitants, however, are more civilized than on many of the neighbouring islands, and in point of industry and morality they vie with the social and orderly people of Kissa. The chief village was situated to the north-north-east of our anchoring place, on a hill about four hundred feet above the level of the sea, the houses, with the hills rising behind it like an amphitheatre, presenting a very beautiful landscape. Their village was formerly built upon the beach, but the repeated attacks of the Ceramese pirates forced them to remove it to its present site.

The Orang Kayas and Orang Tuas, as usual, came on board to welcome us; and on the following morning I went on shore, accompanied by M. Dielwart, M. Kam, the surgeon, the clerk, the interpreters, and the detachment of marines. As it was high water we had to land through a very heavy surf, when we were received with much friendship, and introduced into the Kota Compania, (the Government block-house,) which consisted of a spacious bamboo house, surrounded by a stone wall, within which there was also a tolerably large church. In consequence of the removal of the village, these now lie below the houses of the natives. The level ground in the neighbourhood is covered with dwellings, each being surrounded by a neat garden. Evidence of the uncommon industry of the people was everywhere apparent, the natural fertility of the soil being greatly increased by the skill with which they cultivate it; indeed, many of the neighbouring islands obtain here their supplies of Indian corn, fruits and other provisions, as well as timber for building their prahus. A large and beautiful valley, extending between the hills to the westward of the village of Jerusa, was covered with plantations of Indian corn, rice and vegetables, while the sides and summits of the hills were decked with grazing flocks of goats, sheep, hogs and buffaloes.

During a walk which we took along the shore and thence into the interior, we spied a number of bees' nests hanging from the branches of the high trees, some of which more than two feet in circumference. The wax and honey are collected with very little difficulty, and the bees, when driven from their nests, generally build another on the same tree. Wax, indeed, forms a very important article of commerce here, large quantities of it being sold to the paduakans and other prahus which come from the Arru Islands, Amboyna and Banda, to obtain it. The usual price is one third of a guilder per Catti (20 oz. avoird.) and this is paid in goods, for specie is very little used.

The Christian inhabitants form the greater portion of the population, and they live on a better footing with the heathens than on the other islands. The latter, indeed, are very desirous to embrace Christianity, and a great number of them were baptized by M. Kam during our stay. They willingly allow their children to learn reading and writing, and the good disposition of these islanders, coupled with their natural capacity and application, would render it a matter of facility to convert the entire population; an event very much to be desired, not only for the improvement it would effect in their social state, but for matters of policy also, as experience has incontestibly proved that those natives who have embraced Christianity shew much more fidelity towards the Dutch Government than the others. The teacher who has lately been placed upon this island by our government, and whom we met during our stay, shews much praise-worthy zeal in his endeavours to improve the condition of the people with whom he is domiciled.

The government of the entire island is invested in an upper Orang Kaya, who resides at Jerusa, the neighbouring villages having each their Orang Tua or elder. The power of the Orang Kaya, however, is by no means absolute, for in the event of any dispute the chiefs of the villages assemble, and the decision is carried by the majority of votes. It is remarkable that sometimes, on the death of a chief, his power is transferred to his wife, so that several women are often to be seen among the chiefs when assembled in conclave. The debates are occasionally continued for two or three days, but they are usually settled without much difference of opinion.

As the people live in such a state of harmony with each other, my official duties were not very heavy, and were soon brought to a close. David Benedictus De Klerk, a young man, was appointed as their Upper Orang Kaya, and solemnly invested with the silver-knobbed cane, to the general satisfaction of the people. Here also they declared that everything the country afforded was at our free disposal, and earnestly requested that a couple of Dutch soldiers might be left behind, as representatives of our government, with the promise that they should be liberally supplied with all necessaries. The new appointed Orang Kaya, and more than one hundred and fifty men, women and children, were baptized by M. Kam, many of the people present being clad after the European style, apparently wishing by these means to shew their attachment to our nation, as was the case at the island of Kissa.

I could not avoid observing that the women of Roma though tall and well made, and not inferior in point of personal attractions to those of the adjacent islands, yet have a defect in their figures where their fair neighbours are particularly favoured by nature. Nearly all the women we saw here, even those who were nursing children, had bosoms as flat as those of the men, while in every other respect their figures are unexceptionable. This striking peculiarity, is perhaps to be attributed to some local cause, like the goitre in the mountains of Switzerland.

Our departure was fixed for the 30th of June, and on the previous evening a farewell repast was given at the Kota Compania, at which all the chiefs were present. I had contributed some bottles of wine, and a small cask of arrack to the entertainment, and these were expended in drinking prosperity to the Dutch nation and government. We returned on board betimes, escorted by a number of native prahus. Although we had been amply provided with stock and vegetables during our stay, several goats and hogs were sent after us, which we found it impossible to refuse.

We steered to the westward along Nusa Midta, which is a small uninhabited island covered with trees, but not affording any fresh water. On this and the other islands around Roma abundance of large turtle are caught by the natives, who do not, however, turn much attention to fishing, commerce and agriculture being better suited to their tastes. In the small but important islands which we visited, the natives might soon be brought into a high state of prosperity, from which our government would derive the greatest benefit. Even now they possess capacious vessels, such as Paduakans,[14] Orang-baays and such like, which they manage with skill, but they have been so long deprived of the protection of our government that they scarcely dare to carry on a trade with the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands.