Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

On the north side of the island lies Wilhelmus Bay, which was formerly the seat of the Dutch Residency, the village on its shore being considered as the capital of the island. A narrow foot-path, much broken by the unevenness of the ground, leads through a romantic wild valley from Selat to this bay.

At first the natives were very shy, fearful and suspicious, and they received us, as the inhabitants of Atjieh once did an officer of the Dutch navy, with strung bows and levelled spears, and, like the people of Atjieh, they placed confidence in us as soon as they learned that we were Dutch, and officers of the Government. "Orang Wolanda! Orang Compania!" said they to one another; when they laid by their weapons, and received us without suspicion. For a period of thirty years they had not seen a single Dutchman. Their island was seldom visited by trading vessels, and the Christian population had almost become extinct. Owing to a want of regular government, and of instruction for their youth, the people had returned to their original state of ignorance and barbarism; but nevertheless it could be perceived that they esteemed highly every relic of the Dutch rule which they had in their possession.

The islands which we touched at during the previous part of our voyage are annually visited by Dutch country vessels, and our establishments remained longer on them than on Damma. Kissa, for example, was occupied by a civilian and a detachment of soldiers in the early part of the rule of the present Government; this has certainly been removed a considerable time, but it is evident that the latter island must have a great advantage over the others, especially Damma, which, as I have stated above, had not been visited by a single European for a period of thirty years. We cannot, therefore, be surprised at the people of this neglected island having retrograded in point of civilization; for experience has always proved, that when natives, and especially native Christians, have been left to themselves, without the advantages of proper instruction, they have very soon returned to their former condition. On this point our islanders had been highly unfortunate, as their uncontrolled desires led to continued differences, and brought all friendship and unity to an end.

The day after our arrival at Damma I departed on an excursion to Wilhelmus Bay in the sailing-boat. We found the bay to be entirely exposed, and with very bad anchoring ground, while in both monsoons a heavy sea often tumbles in. A small vessel, however, may find more secure anchorage near the mouth of a small fresh water river.

On the west side of the river we discovered the remains of some strong masonry, from which it appeared that this must have been the site of a stronghold. I could gain no correct information from the natives, (who are wretched chronologists, and can rarely tell their own age), as to the period in which this was standing, much less as to that in which it was built. They could only tell me that the Dutch garrison here had been very numerous, and that it had been removed on a sudden by the Government, on account of a great mortality which had occurred. Some aged natives also remembered that at one time Company's ships often came here. These ruins were, probably, the remains of the fort Wilhelmsburg or Nassau, which was built here by our old India Company, in the year 1646, as at that time the island produced a considerable quantity of spices. The establishment, which consisted of a factor, a lieutenant, and seventy soldiers, was shortly afterwards withdrawn, on account of a great mortality which existed, but subsequently a block-house was erected for the military, as upon the other islands.

The church, houses and block-house had been built with the remains of the fort, but even this was now in a most dilapidated condition. The inhabitants themselves were in a state of great poverty, and without occupation; a considerable number, indeed, had emigrated to other islands, that they might obtain the necessaries of life by becoming bondsmen[16] or slaves.

M. Kam, with several of the officers, had come overland, and arrived here at the same time with ourselves. The whole of the inhabitants, old and young, ran out to see us, and touch our clothes; and they shouted with joy at the Company having paid them a visit. Each of us was soon adopted as a sobat, or friend, by one of the natives. On the first day it was impossible for us to get away from them for a moment; especially after I had served out to them a Sopi Compania, that is, a glass of arrack. Their joy was sincere and universal.

The village at which we had arrived, called by the natives Kaayn, consisted of about forty houses, and was considered as being the capital of the island, the chiefs of all the other villages assembling here on the occasion of a general consultation. The Kota Compania was situated near the sea, and like all the others we had met with, was surrounded by a wall. Above the door of the building, on a half decayed plank, were carved the following words:—"Ghebout 1773 Mat Got Halp."[17] The name, which was written under it, was illegible. In front of the gate of the inclosure was a post, four feet high, surmounted by a square stone, on which the arms of the Dutch East India Company were engraved. This had been cleaned and white-washed on our arrival; and the church, which stood in the centre of the village, was supplied with a new roof, and otherwise repaired and beautified.

The other villages which the island contains, are all small and of little importance, and are scattered over the face of the country. As the land is hilly and covered with rocks, cultivation is not carried on to a very great extent; indeed, the ground scarcely yields sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants: but still there are numerous fertile spots, which might be rendered productive were the inhabitants more industrious. A few plantations of sago and cocoa-nut trees, and of Indian corn and vegetables, were met with in the villages, but these were the only products that I saw under cultivation. Their domestic animals consist of goats and hogs, which they sometimes dispose of to the trading prahus. The forests which cover the island afford materials wherewith they construct prahus, which were formerly employed in trading with the neighbouring islands, but since last year their little bartering trade has been discontinued. At the time of my visit these poor people possessed no larger vessels than canoes with outriggers, which they employed in fishing or in carrying them from village to village; so that it is possible that, for some time past, their voyages have been confined solely to the coasts of their own island.

The natives do not often employ themselves in fishing, which is much to be wondered at when it is considered they have a great taste for fish, while abundance of an excellent quality are to be caught in the waters which surround their island; of which, indeed, we had sufficient proof on board the brig, where the seine afforded us a constant supply of the most delicate fish. The indifference of the natives upon this point, is perhaps to be attributed to the abundance of wild hogs and birds which the island affords. Among these is found the Notenkraker[18] (Columba Globicera) hovering in great numbers around the wild nutmeg trees, of the fruit of which, by the way, they are the only consumers, the natives having no taste for spices. With a little industry this article might form a very valuable article of export.