Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

After we had again got under sail, and I had clearly ascertained that there was no possibility of our running in over the reef without incurring the risk of sticking fast, we fired two guns, upon which two boats put off from the shore, containing the native chiefs, who came on board to pay their respects. I acquainted them in a few words with the object of my visit, and promised to go on shore to transact business on the following day, the 17th of July, when I left the brig with M. Dielwaart, the secretary and the interpreters, in two boats manned with European seamen, under a salvo from the guns, and other customary ceremonies. We soon reached the shore, where we were welcomed by a number of people of both sexes, who had assembled on the beach to receive us, and were conducted by them into their villages, which were only separated from each by stone walls. In the centre village, chairs, benches and tables had been placed for our accommodation, under the shelter of awnings composed of boats' sails. We here held a preliminary meeting of the chiefs, according to the instructions of the Government, and then took possession of two houses which had been prepared for our reception, abundance of provisions being supplied us by the people, as had been the case on the islands we had previously visited.

The inhabitants of Luan, who bear much resemblance to those of Roma, have arrived at a tolerably high state of civilization. The greater part take pride in calling themselves Christians; but they nevertheless live on good terms with the heathens, who here, as elsewhere, are considered as their subjects and inferiors. The inhabitants reside in four villages, situated in a line close to each other, each village having a separate chief. These are exceedingly jealous of each other, and strangers who visit them must pay especial attention to this particular, and carefully abstain from taking more notice of one than of another, since opposite conduct would assuredly lead to serious discord among these otherwise good-natured and peaceful islanders. This circumstance rendered the distribution of the Government presents a matter of greater difficulty than I had found it to be elsewhere.

Traders from Macassar, Amboyna and Banda, annually visit the island to purchase tortoise-shell and trepang. This last production is here found of a better quality than on any of the adjacent islands, and it affords a great source of riches to the natives. The trade of the island is carried on upon the barter system, specie being little used. Cloth, which is in great demand, forms the chief import, so that even European merchants might make great profit by disposing of these articles here.

The trepang, which is so much sought for by the Chinese, and forms one of the chief articles of their trade with these parts, is a sort of sea-slug, of which I shall give a more full description hereafter. The Chinese consider them as a great delicacy, and they therefore have as great a taste for them as for the edible birds'-nests, the last of which are sometimes sold at the rate of four thousand Spanish dollars the picul (133lbs. avoirdupoise.) When a trader arrives at Luan for the purpose of obtaining a supply of trepang, he commences by advancing goods to the natives, in proportions suited to the quantity he requires. The people then collect, and go out in search of the slug, which is found in the greatest abundance on the reefs, in from eight to ten feet water. When the tide is high they are taken by means of a fork or harpoon, but at low water they are easily caught by the hand. The fishery, which is only continued until a sufficient quantity has been obtained to supply the trader, rarely lasts more than three or four days, and it can only be followed with good success during the change of the monsoon. They never keep a stock in hand; and should no traders arrive among them during the year, the fishery is totally neglected. They have, indeed, but few inducements to carry it on with vigour, for a single fishing excursion will supply their wants. It is surprising that the people of the neighbouring islands do not come here occasionally to partake of the abundance of trepang which the reefs afford; for, although the people of Luan claim the exclusive privilege of fishing in the surrounding waters, they take little trouble in preserving it. The traders, whose capital consists of cloth, iron ware, gongs, &c., obtain the trepang at the rate of from twenty to twenty-five guilders the picul, and therefore make an enormous profit on disposing of it to the Chinese. Hogs and goats also form an article of export from Luan. The first, especially, are fattened without much difficulty or expense, on the shells of young cocoa-nuts and on the pith of the sago-tree.

Fowls and ducks are in such abundance on the island, that the natives care little about taking the fish which swarm in the adjacent waters. Their habitations, like those of their neighbours, are very small, rarely exceeding twenty feet in length and ten in breadth. The roofs are thatched with the leaves of the palm-tree, which is found to resist the rays of the sun better than tiles or slates, while at the same time it affords perfect shelter from the rains which fall almost daily during the west monsoon. The floor of the house is raised four or five feet from the ground on wooden piles; and the interior, which contains only a few benches, and a stone fire-place for cooking their simple meals, is lighted by holes in the walls and roof, and by two doors, one at each end of the house, which are left open night and day.

Although among the inhabitants there are many who call themselves Christians, there is no building exclusively appropriated to worship, divine service being usually performed in one of the largest of the houses. Very few of them can read or write, and their knowledge of our religion consists only in doctrines that have been handed down from father to son. During our stay M. Kam baptized more than one hundred and fifty of these islanders, and united several couples in matrimony. It was laughable to see the men and women, young and old, taking my seamen by the arm, and dragging them to the spot where the religious ceremonies were being performed, that they might become their godfathers. The sailors, who, for the most part, were lively young men, put rather a long face on the matter; but I must say it to their praise, that they behaved with the greatest respectability, and never forgot themselves for a moment. As my men always conducted themselves well, I willingly allowed them recreation on shore; and experience has proved to me that those who have the least indulgence of this description, are always the most difficult to manage.

During the 17th, 18th, and 19th of July, I was constantly employed in arranging the affairs of the people of Luan, and in renewing the friendship which formerly existed between them and ourselves. In the name of the Government I distributed the presents, confirmed the chiefs in their governments with the customary solemnities, and drew up their certificates of appointment. Many of the batons presented to former chiefs by the old East India Company, were still in the possession of the natives, together with their certificates, the latest of which bore the date of 1777, so that in all probability the island had not been visited by a Dutchman for a period of nearly fifty years.

It appeared to me to be very remarkable, that they stedfastly refused to permit my appointing any one as their head chief. In spite of all my arguments in favour of such an appointment, they continued obstinate, and it would not have been possible for me to succeed, unless I had resorted to absolute command. They assured me that up to this time they had always lived in peace and unity under the separate government of their various chiefs, and I therefore allowed them to have their own way, which appeared to give universal satisfaction. I subsequently endeavoured to induce them to carry their goods for sale to Amboyna or Banda, and gave them other advice which had for its object the increase of their prosperity; and I had the satisfaction of perceiving that they duly appreciated it. Men and women showed a confidence in, and friendship towards, our Government, which I should find it difficult to describe in appropriate terms. At the general meetings some of them often came forward, and, kissing my hand, entreated that the Government would hereafter bear them in remembrance, and take an active part in the management of their affairs. I promised them that I would faithfully inform our colonial rulers of their numerous good qualities, and would at the same time request that a teacher should be sent to them to instruct their children in useful knowledge, and in the observances of the Christian faith.

The day before my departure from the island, the armed seamen were sent on board, to the great regret of the people, who earnestly requested me to stay a few days longer. Their farewells to our seamen were truly affecting; and those only who are acquainted with the warm dispositions of these people, can conceive how strong a friendship had grown up between them and us in so short a time. When, at length, on the afternoon of the 19th of July, I prepared to return on board, I was accompanied by at least seven-eighths of the people. Amid repeated good wishes they conducted us to our boats, showing us every attention in their power. They carried us into the boats on litters, and I was here again detained some time by the fair islanders, young and old, who crowded around me to take leave.

The proofs of friendship, confidence and regard, which all my fellow voyagers, as well as myself, experienced from the people of Luan, were greater than any we had met with elsewhere. The continued kindness of these islanders was the more striking, from its bearing undeniable marks of sincerity; indeed, it perfectly accorded with their usual conduct, for I never met with more harmony, contentment and toleration, more readiness to afford mutual assistance, more domestic peace and happiness, nor more humanity and hospitality, than among the simple inhabitants of Luan.