Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

Daai Island.—Singular Change in the Colour of the Sea.—Festivities on Board.—The Arru Islands.—Description of these remarkable Regions.—Customs of the Arafuras.—Total Absence of Religion.—Proofs of the Mildness of their Form of Government.—Singular Treatment of their Dead.

We ran along the coast of Baba under small sail, with the wind east-south-east, having squalls occasionally coming off the land. On rounding the point, we opened a high peak on the east side of the island. At noon we passed to the westward of Daai, a high island, slightly wooded, extending nearly east and west about four miles, on the north side of which there is a small inlet affording good anchorage for small vessels. The inhabitants, about one hundred in number, are very wild and evil-disposed, and are under subjection to the Orang-kaya of the west coast of Baba, to whom they deliver the produce of their industry, chiefly live stock, at fixed prices.

On the forenoon of the 13th we passed Serua, an island thinly populated, and not very accessible for vessels. The people, who are heathens, and independent of the other islanders, visit Banda every year at the change of the monsoons, to dispose of their hogs and goats.

We now had the breeze unusually strong, with a high sea, and a current setting to the north-west. For two nights since the waters of the sea had had a curious white appearance, which at first excited little notice, but on the night of the 13th, as the breeze freshened from the east-south-east, this peculiar appearance increased until the sea possessed the colour of milk. This phenomenon was accompanied by thick drizzling rain, so that by ten o'clock P.M. nothing was visible but the dismal brightness of the waters around us. On board the brig the atmosphere was so dark, that we could not distinguish each other at a distance of three paces, and never having seen a like phenomenon, we were not a little surprised. The wind continued to blow strongly until two o'clock A.M., when the atmosphere began to clear up, so that at length we began to recognize one another's countenances. The strange appearance of the water continued until the break of day, and even afterwards it continued white and troubled. During the night, and also on the subsequent day, I took up some of the water in a clean glass, that I might examine it with a microscope; but I found it to be entirely free from dirt or animalculæ, though it still retained a clear, sparkling whiteness. On several subsequent occasions, especially during the night, we remarked a similar appearance, but not to so great an extent as on the one above-mentioned; I am therefore led to suppose that the strength of the wind materially contributed to it. The pilots, who had been acquainted with these seas for several years, informed me that they had never previously witnessed this appearance to so great an extent as at present, which may, perhaps, be owing to their never performing their voyages when the monsoon is blowing its full strength. They were, indeed, as much alarmed as astonished at seeing us beat the brig to windward; but I must here remark, that the Dourga was a very fast and weatherly sea-boat.

In consequence of the current, which usually sets with the wind, and runs with great strength about the parallel of Banda, we were driven so far to leeward, that we were forced to pass to the northward of the Matabella Islands; after leaving which we were enabled to make much better way, but still found it a matter of difficulty to work up against the monsoon.

It was my intention to run as close as possible along the coast of New Guinea, but I was unable to effect my object. On the 22nd we made Pulo Adi, a low and thinly peopled island, lying to the north of the Great Ki, near to the mainland of New Guinea.

On the 24th of August we celebrated the anniversary of our beloved King's birthday. The distance which separates them from their fatherland, renders this holiday doubly interesting to all true hearted Netherlanders, being not only a tribute of love to their King, but also a renewal of dear associations connected with their homes. At the rising of the sun, a salute from our guns announced the arrival of this national holiday. The masts were adorned with flags, and all the seamen, clad in their best array, attended divine service, after which a grand parade was performed, enlivened by the old national hymn, "Wilhelmus van Nas sauwen," the remainder of the day being spent in amusements. The weather favoured the celebration of the feast, and space was made upon the deck for games and dances,[23] as I willingly allowed my brave crew to enjoy themselves to the fullest extent, placing full confidence in them and their officers. I cannot refrain from here making honourable mention of Lieutenant Brennwald, who, on these and all other occasions, fully responded to the confidence I reposed in his circumspection, calmness and seamanship. The anniversary was spent by the seamen, in this far distant region of the globe, with very lively, and indeed with boisterous joy; but the day closed without any one having committed the least excess.

On the 26th we arrived off the Arru Islands. The westernmost islands of this group, (Wama, Wokan, Maykor, and Wadia,) are inhabited, the three first by Christians, and the latter by Mohammedans, the eastern isles being occupied by Arafuras, who live under the control of the others.

Since our departure from the Matabella Islands, we had experienced a set of current to the westward of twenty-four miles, which would render it impossible for an inferior sailing vessel to beat up to the Arru Islands during the east monsoon. Under the guidance of our pilot, but with the precaution of having our boats a-head, we ran along the west coasts of Wadia and Wokan; and on the 27th came to an anchor off Wokan, about cannon-shot from the shore, opposite the village of Wanla. The chiefs of the people came on board to welcome us, as well as those of the neighbouring islands, all of whom evinced the liveliest joy at our arrival.

Were I to describe the different islands as I visited them, I should be betrayed into unnecessary length, as the islands so much resemble one another; I will, therefore, by way of shortening the narrative, enter at once into the description of the Arru Islands generally, omitting those particulars connected with channels, currents, &c. which would be of use only to the navigator.