Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

The pearl fishery is carried on in the following manner. The trader makes an agreement with the Arafuras for so much a hundred, paying an advance of a certain quantity of arrack, cloth, &c. When the price is agreed on the fisher goes to the bank, and dives for the oysters, which are mostly small and black, in from twenty-four to thirty feet water, selecting the best he can find. The diving is attended with much difficulty and danger, as, from the time he remains under water, the blood often bursts from the nose and mouth of the diver, while he is also liable to be destroyed by the numerous sharks which are to be found there.

The chiefs informed me, that in the time of the (Dutch) East India Company, the pearl fishery was carried on by their order;[28] but when the Arafuras found themselves becoming more and more independent of the Christians, and the chiefs were no longer incited by our Government to carry it on, it was very naturally discontinued, as the labour attending it is much greater than that of the trepang fishery. Small quantities of pearls are still obtained in shallow water for the Bughis traders, but these are of little value, and are chiefly disposed of to the Chinese, who use them as an ingredient in some of their medicines.

On one occasion we met with a prahu from the Kabroor Islands (at the east side of the Arrus), the people in which were superior in appearance to the trepang fishers of Vorkay. They had clearer skins than the latter, and their hair, which was also much finer, was very neatly dressed, and adorned with beads. Their weapons, and the ornaments of their prahus, displayed great taste. The strangers, who called themselves Arafuras of Borassi, had abundance of food with them, together with several hunting dogs.

During the year previous to my visit, when the Governor-General Baron Van Der Capellen visited the Moluccas, he sent two schooners of war, the Daphne and Pollux to the Arrus, to enquire into the condition of the people. The arrival of M. A.J. Bik, who was at the head of this expedition, had given rise to a hope among the natives that the Government would take an interest in their affairs, so that my visit naturally excited much joy among them. They welcomed us in the most friendly manner, kissed our hands, and expressed the greatest joy when I informed them of the object of my visit, and of the purpose of our Government to take them again under their protection. The frank and kind manner in which men and women, heathens as well as Christians, came forth to meet us, was truly striking and impressive, the more from these innocent people being, unlike many others of the Indian races, entirely free from dissimulation. Even the children crowded around to kiss us.

On the afternoon of my arrival I went on shore accompanied by M. Kam and several other gentlemen, to the village of Wanla, which is erected on a point of limestone rock, about thirty feet above the level of the sea. It contains only ten or twelve poor and small houses; but the stone church, which also overhangs the sea, was in very good condition. Wanla is a dependence of Duryella, the capital of Wama, but is under the immediate control of an Orang Tua.

In several places we saw prahus hauled up on the beach, which are hired to the traders during the time they remain among the islands. In the interior we saw a number of sago trees, the pith of which constituted the chief food of the natives. The ground, generally, is by no means fertile, and in many parts is overgrown with underwood, there being but few spots calculated for the cultivation of rice.

On Sunday, the 28th of August, I set out for Duryella, our road, which lay along the beach, being almost impassable from the number of trees which had been thrown up by the sea during the westerly monsoon. If the inhabitants were rather more industrious they would cut a road through the beautiful forest which runs down close to the sea. Among the trees which lined the shore I recognized the kanari, the katapan laut, the tutun, the yamplon,[29] the casuarina, and the bua-raja, the last of which bears much resemblance to the Javanese fern or pohon paku, the leaves having a beautiful green colour; the fruit, when dried and pounded fine, is often used instead of flour in the composition of pastry.

After an hour's walking we arrived at Duryella, where we were received with much solemnity under a salute of lelahs. The village, which is well built and kept in very good order, forms nearly a square. On the beach opposite, a stage was erected on a high tree, on which several lelahs were mounted; this was formerly used for their protection, when the inhabitants were at war with the people of Wadia; but since peace had been made between them by M. Bik, the fortification had been allowed to fall into disrepair.

The house of the Orang Kaya, Jacob Barend, in which we were received, answered also for a fort. It was erected on high piles of iron-wood, and consisted of several rooms, in which the numerous family of the Orang Kaya took up their residence. The remainder of the houses, which formed the village, were smaller, but constructed after the same manner; and the neat little church was kept in good order. The schoolmaster, who resided here, appeared to do his best in instructing his fellow Christians. These teachers, who also perform divine service, are usually young natives of Amboyna, who, after having undergone a course of instruction, are sent among the neighbouring islands without salaries, and being therefore dependent on the natives for support, they are sometimes, from want of the protection of the Government, in very necessitous circumstances. The hope of being relieved and settled at Amboyna, after having been employed as missionaries a few years, renders them very willing to undertake this office, which would otherwise be a truly great sacrifice on their part, as none can feel greater reluctance to leave their homes for a long period than the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago in general.

M. Bik, on fixing two Amboynese teachers here, whom he brought with him, promised them a salary, and also to supply them now and then with necessaries, as occasion might offer. I therefore considered it my duty to advance them some money and clothes, while at the same time I suggested to the inhabitants that they ought regularly to contribute something to the support of these useful men. The teachers pride themselves on their descent as Amboynese, and are uncommonly neat in their dress. I never saw one otherwise than well clad, wearing a three-cornered hat, a black coat of cloth or cotton, small-clothes of the same materials, with shoes, and black silk or cotton stockings. The teacher at Wokan was married to the daughter of the Orang Kaya, and was as much respected as he was esteemed. Their usual employment consists in instructing the children in reading and writing the Malay language (Roman letters, not the Arabic characters, being used), and in initiating them in the rudiments of the Reformed Religion. They rarely, however, acquire a full insight into the last, as the young people are forced to leave school at an early period, that they may assist their parents in their avocations. He also performs divine service every Sunday, during which he reads passages from the Bible, and the community under his direction sing psalms in the Malayan tongue,[30] the service being usually closed with a discourse on the precepts and duties of Christianity.