Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

Early on the following morning we found ourselves close under the shore of that island, when the boats were sent away to find anchorage; and I was soon rejoiced by seeing the signal made which had been determined on, in the event of their search being successful. I now chose our anchorage close to the reef, and carried a cable on shore, which was made fast to the trees on the middle of the bank. The bower-anchor lay in thirty fathoms sand, while the brig was not more than three quarters of a cable's length from the reef; rather too little room, perhaps, but the situation did not appear to me as being dangerous, as the wind always blows steadily off shore, and there was not sufficient current to swing the brig on to the reef. A considerable period elapsed, however, before we could bring the brig up, as the sand proved to be bad holding-ground. The anchor dragged twice, and it was not until the third attempt, when a warp had been carried on shore, that we succeeded in making all fast. Several vessels, containing some of the principal inhabitants, came rowing round the ship, on which I invited them on board, and, receiving them with all possible friendship, cursorily acquainted them with the object of my visit.

When seen from this side, the island appears hilly. The frontage is covered with vegetation, and bears the appearance of possessing uncommon fertility. Even the sides of the high hills were laid out in beautiful gardens, the groves of cocoa-nut, and other large trees that separated them, between which might often be perceived the dwellings of the cultivators, presenting an agreeable variety to the prospect. The splendid landscape that opened before us, the majesty of the forest-crowned hills, the picturesque beauty of the entire tract of country, and the luxuriant growth of the vegetation, altogether offered too striking a view for my feeble pen to describe.

The north-east side of the island is uninhabited. On the north-west side lie the villages of Sebiano and Adodo; while the south coast is occupied by the villages of Ameer, Ewena and Romian. The only anchorage is on the north-west side of the island, every other part being surrounded by reefs, through which it is difficult to pass even with boats at low water.

The inhabitants of the various islands of the Tenimber group bear much resemblance to each other, in language, customs and other particulars. They are usually well formed, and possess a fairer complexion than most of their neighbours, while their features display few of the characteristics of the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago generally, being more in accordance with those of Europeans, to whom they would bear much resemblance were it not for the dark colour of their complexion. In point of stature the women are superior to those of the neighbouring island; the young ones especially, are uncommonly handsome, their beauty being much increased by their simple mode of dress instead of by fashionable attire, their costume consisting only of a small piece of blue cloth worn round the waist. Men as well as women wear several ornaments, such as gold and silver rings, of their own manufacture, suspended from their ears, each of which is pierced with several holes. The women are very partial to necklaces and bracelets of small red beads, which, indeed, add much to their graceful appearance.

The heaviest portion of the labour is performed by the women, the men devoting themselves to warlike pursuits, the chase, the fishery and commerce. Early in the morning the young unmanned women, under the escort of three or four armed men, depart for the plantations in the interior, and at sunset in the evening they may be seen returning, laden with the produce of their labour, which they bear in baskets upon the head. The married and elderly women, usually remain at home, where they employ themselves in household affairs, tending the stock, and preparing the meals. On the marriage of a young woman, she adorns her ankles with one or two copper rings, which make a ringing noise at every step, by no means disagreeable to the ear. These singular ornaments give them a peculiar halting gait, the rings being from two and a half to three pounds weight.[37] Some are carved with various figures.

The natives of the lower class usually go entirely naked, only the chiefs and heads of families, with those who have visited foreign parts, wearing any clothing.

Their warlike equipment is very singular. Like the Ceramese, and other Indian nations, they have their warriors or champions, who, when preparing for war, anoint their heads abundantly with cocoa-nut oil, and mix large bunches of loose hair with their own, which they raise up in a towering manner by means of a large bamboo comb, adorned with cock's feathers of various colours, to give them a fear-inspiring appearance. Their hair is also confined by bands of coloured cloth, studded with red beads, and ornamented with hanging shells. Round the middle they wear a piece of dried buffalo's hide by way of armour, to which is suspended their knife and their klewang or cutlass. Large golden rings are attached to the ears; the neck is protected by a thick collar, studded with white shells; the costume of the warrior being completed by bands of ivory, worked over with beads, worn on the arms.

When they go to war with their neighbours all other occupations are neglected, and they employ themselves in wandering through the forest, watching for opportunities to carry off the enemy's women. Occasionally the warriors call each other out, when a skirmish takes place; but their warlike propensities are chiefly exercised in plundering, and in waylaying the enemy when employed in his plantations or at the fishery, but never coming to a regular open fight. More sagoweer, or palm wine, is drank at this time than at any other, the cocoa-nut trees being put to no other use than to supply the ingredients. Before the tree bears fruit the blossom is enclosed in a case, the bottom of which is cut every day, and an earthern pot, or a piece of hollow bamboo, placed under to catch the sap, which, when fermented, acquires an intoxicating power.

As on the islands visited during the previous part of the voyage, there existed here differences, and wars arising from insignificant causes, enduring for years, and never adjusted except by the accidental mediation of traders or others from the neighbouring countries. Pride, jealousy and exasperation prevent either party from taking the first step towards reconciliation. Several examples of this will be given in the ensuing pages.

Until late in the evening the arrival and departure of natives from the shore never ceased. I sent my interpreters on shore to make known the object of my visit in the various villages, and to call the chiefs together to a general meeting. On the following morning one of the boats, armed with two one-pounder guns, was sent in advance to the village of Aweer, on the south-west point of the island, and I followed soon after in another boat, accompanied by the gentlemen attached to the commission. On stepping ashore we were saluted by a salvo from the guns of the boat sent in advance, and were received with friendship by a large concourse of natives clad in their war dresses. We first entered the village of Aweer, where women and children, as well as men, assembled around us, which, as I have previously remarked, always affords an undoubted proof of friendship and confidence on the part of the natives. We were much struck by the neatness of this village, and the large amount of its population. We perceived no less than a hundred handsome huts, built in the manner previously described.