Rough Lumber Will Answer.
It is not even necessary to have smoothed lumber for the flooring or any part of the house, but matched and planed boards will make a much neater piece of work. The uprights and all the frame are supposed to be built of “two-by-four” (two inches thick by four inches wide), but even this is not necessary, and in the country, where trimmed lumber is scarce, the whole frame may be built of poles cut in the woods.
When the
Pigeon-Loft Floor
is nailed down, set the door-jambs in place, between D J and B H, and the window-jambs between D J and F L, as shown by Fig. 32. Nail the jambs fast to the rest of the frame, toe-nailing the loft door-jamb to the floor of the loft, and the coop jamb to the ceiling of the coop, also the two horizontal jambs of the window-frame to the two upright jambs of the same.
Shutter Frames.
Over the top-piece, C D, and the bottom piece, N, nail two boards, each about six inches wide (R and S, Fig. 32), and upon the inside of the loft erect three boards, one at each end and one in the middle (facing the roof of the coop), each of the same width as the top and bottom-boards. This is to make a framework for the shutters, with which to close the loft in bad weather. Over the uprights just erected nail the strips, Q, O, and P (Fig. 32). Repeat this with the front end of the coop, E, F, K, and L, of Fig. 31, and you will have it as represented by Fig. 32.
Fig. 32.—Framed and Roofed.