CONTENTS

I.Childhood and Youth[19]
II.Ministerial Training[35]
III.Bangkok[43]
IV.Pechaburī—The Call of the North[53]
V.The Charter of the Lāo Mission[66]
VI.Chiengmai[77]
VII.Pioneer Work[84]
VIII.First-fruits[95]
IX.Martyrdom[102]
X.The Royal Commission[118]
XI.Death of Kāwilōrot[130]
XII.The New Régime[140]
XIII.Exploration[150]
XIV.First Furlough[160]
XV.Mûang Kên and Chieng Dāo[169]
XVI.Seekers After God[180]
XVII.The Resident Commissioner[191]
XVIII.Witchcraft[199]
XIX.The Edict of Religious Toleration[207]
XX.Schools—The Nine Years’ Wanderer[221]
XXI.Second Furlough[236]
XXII.A Surveying Expedition[244]
XXIII.Evangelistic Training[255]
XXIV.Struggle With the Powers of Darkness[266]
XXV.Christian Communities Planted[276]
XXVI.A Foothold in Lampūn[289]
XXVII.A Prisoner of Jesus Christ[300]
XXVIII.Circuit Tour With My Daughter[308]
XXIX.Lengthening the Cords and Strengthening the Stakes[320]
XXX.Among the Mūsô Villages—Famine[338]
XXXI.Chieng Rung and the Sipsawng Pannā[353]
XXXII.Third Furlough—Station at Chieng Rāi[370]
XXXIII.The Regions Beyond[386]
XXXIV.The Closed Door[402]
XXXV.Conclusion[413]
Index[431]

ILLUSTRATIONS

Daniel McGilvary[Frontispiece]
William J. Bingham[30]
Mahā Monkut, King of Siam, 1851-1872[48]
Pagoda of Wat Chêng, Bangkok[56]
Rev. Dan Beach Bradley, M.D., 1872[70]
Kāwilōrot, Prince of Chiengmai (about 1869)[70]
A Rest Between Rapids in the Gorge of the Mê Ping River[76]
Poling up the Mê Ping River[76]
Temple of the Old Tāi Style of Architecture, Chiengmai[82]
A Cremation Procession[146]
Interior of a Temple, Prê[158]
An Abbot Preaching[188]
Intanon, Prince of Chiengmai[202]
Elder Nān Suwan[202]
Dr. McGilvary, 1881[238]
Mrs. McGilvary, 1881[238]
Chulalongkorn, King of Siam, 1872-1910[242]
Presbytery, Returning From Meeting in Lakawn[264]
Market Scene in Chiengmai[274]
In the Harvest-Field[274]
Girls’ School in Chiengmai, 1892[284]
Rev. Jonathan Wilson, D.D., 1898[294]
First Church in Chiengmai[318]
Dr. Mcgilvary’s Home in Chiengmai[318]
Mrs. Mcgilvary, 1893[332]
Mūsô People and Hut near Chieng Rai[348]
Group of Yunnan Lāo[356]
Phya Sura Sih, Siamese High Commissioner for the North[384]
His Majesty, Mahā Vajiravudh, King of Siam[424]
Dr. and Mrs. McGilvary, Fifty Years after Their Marriage[428]
Map of Northern Siam Showing Mission Stations[326]
Map of Siam[430]

I
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH

Heredity and early environment exercise such a determining influence in forming a man’s character and shaping his destiny that, without some knowledge of these as a clew, his after-life would often be unintelligible. And beyond these there is doubtless a current of events, directing the course of every man’s life, which no one else can see so clearly as the man himself. In the following review of my early life, I have confined myself, therefore, to those events which seem to have led me to my life-work, or to have prepared me for it.

By race I am a Scotsman of Scotsmen. My father, Malcom McGilvary, was a Highland lad, born in the Isle of Skye, and inheriting the marked characteristics of his race. In 1789, when Malcom was eleven years old, my grandfather brought his family to the United States, and established himself in Moore County, North Carolina, on the headwaters of the Cape Fear River. The McGilvarys had but followed in the wake of an earlier immigration of Scottish Highlanders, whose descendants to this day form a large proportion of the population of Moore, Cumberland, Richmond, Robeson, and other counties of North Carolina. My father’s brothers gradually scattered, one going to the southwestern, and two to the northwestern frontier. My father, being the youngest of the family, remained with his parents on the homestead. The country was then sparsely settled; communication was slow and uncertain. The scattered members of the family gradually lost sight of one another and of the home. My mother belonged to the McIver clan—from the same region of the Scottish Highlands, and as numerous in North Carolina as the McGilvarys were scarce. She was born in this country not long after the arrival of her parents.

I was born May 16th, 1828, being the youngest of seven children. As soon after my birth as my mother could endure the removal, she was taken to Fayetteville, thirty-five miles distant, to undergo a dangerous surgical operation. The journey was a trying one. Anæsthetics were as yet unknown. My poor mother did not long survive the shock. She died on the 23d of November of that year.