A Hamburgh vessel was lost near the bar before we came down. The men were much more regular in their habits than English sailors, so I had an opportunity of observing the fever acting as a slow poison. They felt "out of sorts" only, but gradually became pale, bloodless, and emaciated, then weaker and weaker, till at last they sank more like oxen bitten by tsetse than any disease I ever saw. The captain, a strong, robust young man, remained in perfect health for about three months, but was at last knocked down suddenly and made as helpless as a child by this terrible disease. He had imbibed a foolish prejudice against quinine, our sheet-anchor in the complaint. This is rather a professional subject, but I introduce it here in order to protest against the prejudice as almost entirely unfounded. Quinine is invaluable in fever, and never produces any unpleasant effects in any stage of the disease, IF EXHIBITED IN COMBINATION WITH AN APERIENT. The captain was saved by it, without his knowledge, and I was thankful that the mode of treatment, so efficacious among natives, promised so fair among Europeans.
After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, in which, however, by the kind attentions of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, I partially recovered from my tertian, H. M. brig "Frolic" arrived off Kilimane. As the village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was rough, she was at anchor ten days before we knew of her presence about seven miles from the entrance to the port. She brought abundant supplies for all my need, and 150 Pounds to pay my passage home, from my kind friend Mr. Thompson, the Society's agent at the Cape. The admiral at the Cape kindly sent an offer of a passage to the Mauritius, which I thankfully accepted. Sekwebu and one attendant alone remained with me now. He was very intelligent, and had been of the greatest service to me; indeed, but for his good sense, tact, and command of the language of the tribes through which we passed, I believe we should scarcely have succeeded in reaching the coast. I naturally felt grateful to him; and as his chief wished ALL my companions to go to England with me, and would probably be disappointed if none went, I thought it would be beneficial for him to see the effects of civilization, and report them to his countrymen; I wished also to make some return for his very important services. Others had petitioned to come, but I explained the danger of a change of climate and food, and with difficulty restrained them. The only one who now remained begged so hard to come on board ship that I greatly regretted that the expense prevented my acceding to his wish to visit England. I said to him, "You will die if you go to such a cold country as mine." "That is nothing," he reiterated; "let me die at your feet."
When we parted from our friends at Kilimane, the sea on the bar was frightful even to the seamen. This was the first time Sekwebu had seen the sea. Captain Peyton had sent two boats in case of accident. The waves were so high that, when the cutter was in one trough, and we in the pinnace in another, her mast was hid. We then mounted to the crest of the wave, rushed down the slope, and struck the water again with a blow which felt as if she had struck the bottom. Boats must be singularly well constructed to be able to stand these shocks. Three breakers swept over us. The men lift up their oars, and a wave comes sweeping over all, giving the impression that the boat is going down, but she only goes beneath the top of the wave, comes out on the other side, and swings down the slope, and a man bales out the water with a bucket. Poor Sekwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke over, and said, "Is this the way you go? Is this the way you go?" I smiled and said, "Yes; don't you see it is?" and tried to encourage him. He was well acquainted with canoes, but never had seen aught like this. When we reached the ship—a fine, large brig of sixteen guns and a crew of one hundred and thirty—she was rolling so that we could see a part of her bottom. It was quite impossible for landsmen to catch the ropes and climb up, so a chair was sent down, and we were hoisted in as ladies usually are, and received so hearty an English welcome from Captain Peyton and all on board that I felt myself at once at home in every thing except my own mother tongue. I seemed to know the language perfectly, but the words I wanted would not come at my call. When I left England I had no intention of returning, and directed my attention earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to English composition. With the exception of a short interval in Angola, I had been three and a half years without speaking English, and this, with thirteen years of previous partial disuse of my native tongue, made me feel sadly at a loss on board the "Frolic".
We left Kilimane on the 12th of July, and reached the Mauritius on the 12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was picking up English, and becoming a favorite with both men and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, every thing on board a man-of-war being so new and strange; but he remarked to me several times, "Your countrymen are very agreeable," and, "What a strange country this is—all water together!" He also said that he now understood why I used the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius a steamer came out to tow us into the harbor. The constant strain on his untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, for during the night he became insane. I thought at first that he was intoxicated. He had descended into a boat, and, when I attempted to go down and bring him into the ship, he ran to the stern and said, "No! no! it is enough that I die alone. You must not perish; if you come, I shall throw myself into the water." Perceiving that his mind was affected, I said, "Now, Sekwebu, we are going to Ma Robert." This struck a chord in his bosom, and he said, "Oh yes; where is she, and where is Robert?" and he seemed to recover. The officers proposed to secure him by putting him in irons; but, being a gentleman in his own country, I objected, knowing that the insane often retain an impression of ill treatment, and I could not bear to have it said in Sekeletu's country that I had chained one of his principal men as they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get him on shore by day, but he refused. In the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred; he tried to spear one of the crew, then leaped overboard, and, though he could swim well, pulled himself down hand under hand by the chain cable. We never found the body of poor Sekwebu.
At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by Major General C. M. Hay, and he generously constrained me to remain with him till, by the influence of the good climate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an enlarged spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Red Sea; escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable management of Captain Powell, of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Company's ship "Candia", and on the 12th of December was once more in dear old England. The Company most liberally refunded my passage-money. I have not mentioned half the favors bestowed, but I may just add that no one has cause for more abundant gratitude to his fellow-men and to his Maker than I have; and may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that I may be more humbly devoted to the service of the Author of all our mercies!
Appendix.—Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions.
[The "Remarks" column has been replaced, where needed, with remarks listed below the corresponding line, and inclosed in square brackets.]
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Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets
South. East. of Lunar
Distances.
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d ' " d ' " W. E.
Manakalongwe Pass. 22 55 52 . . . 1853, Jan. 26
Letloche. 22 38 0 . . . Jan. 28
Kanne. 22 26 56 . . . Jan. 31
Lotlokane, where the first 21 27 47 . . . Feb. 11, 12
Palmyra-trees occur.
Hence path to Nchokotsa N.N.W.,
thence to Kobe N.W.
Kobe (1st group). 20 53 14 24 52 0 Feb. 18, 19
Kama Kama, from whence 19 52 31 . . . Mar. 2
traveled in magnetic
meridian (1st group).
Fever Ponds (1st group). 19 15 53 24 55 0 Mar. 11, 28
Ten miles S. of hill N'gwa 18 38 0 24 26 0 Apr. 14
(1st group).
N'gwa Hill (a central 18 27 50 24 13 36 Apr. 15, 16
occultation of
B.A.C. 2364 Gemini).
N'gwa Valley, half mile 18 27 20 24 13 36 Apr. 17
N. of hill.
E. of and in parallel of 18 20 0 . . . Apr. 17
Wagon Station of 1851.
Wagon Station on the Chobe, 18 20 0 23 50 0 . . .
three miles S.
of Sekeletu's Town.
Sekeletu's Town (1st group). 18 17 20 23 50 9 |June 13 |
|July 14, 17|
[ Boiling-point of water = 205-1/3 Deg.; Alt. = 3521 feet. ]
Island Mahonta. The Chobe 17 58 0 (24 6) Apr. 26
runs here in 17d 58'.
Banks of Sanshureh River, 18 4 27 24 6 20 Apr. 26
a branch of the Chobe
(1st group).
[ At a well-known Baobab-tree 9' south of Mahonta island. ]
Town of Sesheke 17 31 38 25 13 0 1855, Aug. 31 . 1
on the Zambesi.
Sekhosi's Town on 17 29 13 . . . 1853, July 26, 27
the Zambesi (about 25 miles
W. of Sesheke).
Cataract of Nambwe. 17 17 16 . . . July 31
Confluence of 17 7 31 . . . 1855, Aug. 22 . 1
Njoko and Zambesi.
Cataract of Bombwe. 16 56 33 . . . 1853, Aug. 1
Kale Cataract. 16 49 52 . . . 1855, Aug. 21 . 1
Falls of Gonye. 16 38 50 23 55 0 |1853, Aug. 2|
|1855, Aug. 19| 1 2
Nameta. 16 12 9 . . . Aug. 17 . 2
Seori sa Mei, 16 0 32 . . . 1853, Aug. 5
or Island of Water.
Litofe Island, town of. 15 55 0 . . . Aug. 6
Loyela, S. end of this 15 27 30 . . . Aug. 9
island, town of Mamochisane.
Naliele or Nariele, 15 24 17 23 5 54 Aug. 10, 13
chief town of Barotse
(occultation of Jupiter)
(1st group).
Linangelo, old town 15 18 40 . . . Aug. 19
of Santuru (site nearly
swallowed up).
Katongo (near Slave 15 16 33 . . . Aug. 30
Merchants' Stockade).
Point of Junction of Nariele 15 15 43 . . . Aug. 29
Branch with the Main Stream.
Quando Village. 15 6 8 . . . Aug. 28
Town of Libonta. 14 59 0 . . . Aug. 21
Island of Tongane. 14 38 6 . . . Aug. 23
Cowrie Island. 14 20 5 . . . Aug. 24
Junction of the Loeti 14 18 57 . . . Aug.
with the Main Stream
(Leeambye, Zambesi).
[ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ]
Confluence of the Leeba 14 10 52 23 35 40 Aug. 24, 25
or Lonta with the Leeambye
(1st group).
Kabompo, near the Leeba. 12 37 35 22 47 0 |1854, Jan. 1|
|1855, July 3| . 3
Village about 2' N.W. 12 6 6 22 57 0 1854, Feb. 1
of the Leeba after leaving
Kabompo town: the hill Peeri,
or Piri, bearing S.S.E.,
distant about 6'.
Village of Soana Molopo, 11 49 22 22 42 0 Feb. 7
3' from Lokalueje River.
Village of Quendende, 11 41 17 . . . Feb. 11
about 2' S.E. of the ford
of the Lotembwa, and about
9' from the town of Katema.
Banks of the Lovoa. 11 40 54 . . . 1855, June 20 2 .
Lofuje River flows into 12 52 35 22 49 0 July 7 . 3
the Leeba; Nyamoana's village.
Confluence of the Makondo 13 23 12 . . . July 13
and Leeba Rivers.
Katema's Town, 5' S. of Lake 11 35 49 22 27 0 1854, Feb. 17 . 2
Dilolo, the source of the
Lotembwa, one of the principal
feeders of the Leeba.
Lake Dilolo (station about 11 32 1 . . . 1855, June 18 . 2
half a mile S. of the lake). June 13 . .
[ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ]
Village near the ford of 11 15 55 . . . 1854, Feb. 28
the River Kasai, Kasye,
or Loke. The ford is
in latitude 11d 17'.
Bango's Village, about 10' 10 22 53 20 58 0 1855, May 28 3 .
W. of the Loembwe.
Banks of the Stream Chihune. 10 57 30 (20 53)*1* 1854, Mar. 8
[ The longitude doubtful. ]
Ionga Panza's village. 10 25 0 20 15 0 *2* Mar. 20
Ford of the River Quango. 9 50 0 (18 27 0) Apr. 5
Cassange, about 40 or 50 9 37 30 17 49 0 Apr. 13, 17 3 2
miles W. of the River Quango,
and situated in a deep valley.
Tala Mungongo, 2' E. 9 42 37 (17 27) Jan. 11, 14
of following station.
[ Longitude not observed: Water boils—
Top of = 206 Deg., height 3151 feet.
Bottom of descent = 208 Deg. = 2097 feet.
Bottom of east ascent = 205 Deg. = 3680 feet.
Top " " " = 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ]
Banks of the Quinze, 9 42 37 17 25 0 1855, Jan. 10 . 1
near the source, 2' W. of
the sudden descent which
forms the valley of Cassange.
Sanza, on the River Quize 9 37 46 16 59 0 Jan. 7 . 4
(about 15 yards wide).
Pungo Andongo, 9 42 14 15 30 0 1854, Dec. 11 . 4
on the River Coanza.
[ On the top of the rocks water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ]
On the River Coanza, 9 47 2 . . . Dec. 22
2' W. of Pungo Andongo.
Candumba, 15 miles E. of 9 42 46 . . . 1855, Jan. 2
Pungo Andongo, 300 yards
N. of the Coanza.
Confluence of the Lombe 9 41 26 . . . Jan. 3
and Coanza, 8' or 10' E.
of Candumba, and at house
of M. Pires, taken at about
half a mile N. of confluence.
[ Here the Coanza takes its southern bend. ]
Golungo Alto, about midway 9 8 30 14 51 0 1854,|Oct. 27|
between Ambaca and Loanda. |May 14|
"Aguaes doces" in Cassange, 9 15 2 . . . Oct. 6, 7 . 2
10' W. of Golungo Alto.
[ At the confluence of the Luinha and Luce. ]
Confluence of the Luinha 9 26 23 . . .
and Lucalla.
Confluence of the Lucalla 9 37 46 . . . Oct. 11, 12
and Coanza, Massangano
town and fort.
[ A prominent hill in Cazengo, called Zungo, is about 6'
S.S.W. of "Aguaes doces", and it bears N.E. by E.
from the house of the commandant at Massangano. ]
Ambaca, residence of the 9 16 35 15 23 0 Dec. 6
commandant of the district.
Kalai, 17 51 54 25 41 0 1855, Nov. 18 2 3
near the Mosioatunya Falls.
Lekone Rivulet. 17 45 6 25 55 0 Nov. 20 4 1
[ Water boils at 204-1/2 Deg. = 3945 feet. Between Lekone and Kalomo,
Marimba 203-1/4 Deg. = 4608 feet. ]
Kalomo River. (17 3 0) . . . Nov. 30 . 1
[ The lat. and long. doubtful. Top of ridge, water boils
at 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ]
Rivulet of Dela, 16 56 0 26 45 0 Dec. 2 . 3
called Mozuma.
Kise Kise Hills. 16 27 20 . . . Dec. 3
Nakachinto Rivulet. 16 11 24 . . . Dec. 11
[ On eastern descent from ridge, water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ]
Elephant's Grave. (16 3 0) (28 10) Dec. 14 1 .
[ The latitude not observed. ]
Kenia Hills, Rivulet Losito (15 56 0) (28 1) Dec. 16 3 .
on their western flank.
[ The latitude not observed. ]
6' E. of Bolengwe Gorge, 15 48 19 28 22 0 Dec. 18 3 3
and on the banks of the Kafue.
7' or 8' N.E. or E.N.E. (15 49 0) (28 34) *3* Dec. 29 . 4
of the confluence of
the Kafue and Zambesi,
at a rivulet called Kambare.
[ The lat. not observed; water boils 205-1/2 Deg. = 3415 feet.
Top of the hills Semalembue, water boils 204-1/2 Deg. = 4078 feet.
Bottom of ditto, 205-3/4 Deg. = 3288 feet. ]
Confluence of Kafue 15 53 0 . . .
and Zambesi.
Banks of Zambesi, 15 50 49 . . . Dec. 30
8' or 10' below confluence.
[ Water boils at 209 Deg. = 1571 feet. ]
Village of Ma-Mburuma, 15 36 57 30 22 0 1856, Jan. 12 1 1
about 10 miles from Zumbo.
Zumbo station, ruins of a 15 37 22 30 32 0 Jan. 13 2 3
church on the right bank of
the Loangwa, about 300 yards
from confluence with Zambesi.
[ Water boils at 209-1/4 Deg. = 1440 feet. ]
Chilonda's Village, quarter 15 38 34 30 52 0 Jan. 20 3 .
of a mile N. of Zambesi,
near the Kabanka Hill.
Opposite Hill Pinkwe. 15 39 11 (32 5) *4* Feb. 7 . 1
[ Long. doubtful; the moon's alt. only 4 Deg. ]
Moshua Rivulet. 15 45 33 32 22 0 *5* Feb. 9 1 2
Tangwe Rivulet, or 16 13 38 32 29 0 Feb. 20
Sand River, 1/4 mile broad.
Tete or Nyungwe station, 16 9 3 33 28 0 Mar. 2, 17 4 8
house of commandant.
Hot Spring Makorozi, 15 59 35 . . . Mar. 13
about 10 m. up the river.
Below Tete, island of 16 34 46 32 51 0 Apr. 23 1 .
Mozambique, on the Zambesi.
Island of Nkuesa. 17 1 6 . . . Apr. 25
Senna, 300 yards S.W. 17 27 1 34 57 0 *6* |April 27| 2 6
of the Mud Fort on the bank |May 8, 9|
of the river.
Islet of Shupanga. 17 51 38 . . . May 12
Small islet in the middle of 17 59 21 . . . May 13
the Zambesi, and six or eight
miles below Shupanga.
Mazaro or Mutu, 18 3 37 35 57 0 May 14 2 2
where the Kilimane River
branches off the Zambesi.
Kilimane Village, 17 53 8 36 40 0 *7* June 13, 25, 27 1 6
at the house of Senor
Galdino Jose Nunes,
colonel of militia.
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Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets
South. East. of Lunar
Distances.
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*1* Probably 20d 25'.—I. A.
*2* Probably 20d 10'.—I. A.
*3* Probably 28d 56'.—I. A.
*4* Probably 31d 46' 30".—I. A.
*5* Probably 31d 56'.—I. A.
*6* Probably 35d 10' 15".—I. A.
*7* Probably 36d 56' 8".—I. A.