The small, but ancient, town of Culross, which owes its origin to the abbey, clusters below it on the slope of the hill, and along its base at the river side.
In the seventeenth century the town took a great development, owing to the collieries and other industries established by Sir George Bruce, and the harbour was crowded with shipping. But during the present century this commercial activity has entirely disappeared, and the little town has relapsed into a quiet, old-fashioned place, still, however, full of interest and picturesqueness. Amongst its ancient buildings are the “Study,” the Tolbooth, and the “Palace,” which have been described in the Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, Vol. II. p. 432, and Vol. V. pp. 25 and 119.
The town is also prolific in ecclesiastical structures, of which the remains of no less than three still exist. The principal of these is the abbey. The others consist of the ruins of the ancient parish church, situated about a mile to the west, and the remnants of the Church of St. Mungo, which lie at the base of the slope a short way to the east of the town.
The abbey was founded, in 1217, by Malcolm, third Earl of Fife. Almost nothing is known of its history, but it is believed to occupy the site hallowed by the memory of St. Mungo and his reputed preceptor, St. Serf or Servanus. St. Mungo is, by tradition, said to have been born on the shore of the Forth at this place, whither his mother was miraculously brought by a storm, and to have been nurtured and trained by St. Serf, an ancient Celtic ecclesiastic, already settled at Culross. This story, however, is discarded by Dr. Skene, who maintains that St. Mungo or Kentigern died in 603, while Servanus did not found the Church of Culross till the end of the seventh century.
This ancient foundation was apparently revived by Earl Malcolm, who introduced a body of Cistercian monks from Kinloss, of which abbey, Hugh, the first prior, was abbot.
From the evidence of the architecture it is apparent that the establishment founded by Earl Malcolm was erected in the thirteenth century. Considerable remains of that period, and some walls of what might be regarded as of earlier date, are still traceable; but the principal parts of the existing church, which has been much altered, are of considerably later date.
The plan of the church is peculiar ([Fig. 635]). Its most conspicuous feature is the tower, which rises from the ground in the centre of the building, with four solid walls. To the west of this tower are a few relics of what appears to have been a separate church, while to the east of it is a complete church, consisting of the choir, north and south transepts, and a portion which may be called the nave, running westwards from the crossing to the tower.
A few fragments of the old monastic structures also survive. Adjoining the south transept are parts of two early doorways, and running southwards from the west end of the west church are the manse (which comprises old walls) and a large groined hall, which may have formed the hall of the lay brothers of the convent. A vaulted passage adjoins it, leading into the manse garden, which evidently occupies the site of the original cloisters. The church formed the north side of the quadrangle, while along the south side stretched a series of buildings which, doubtless, contained the refectory. Owing to the slope of the ground these erections are supported on vaults, part of which still remains.
The site of the church is level throughout its whole length on the north and east, and along the south side of the choir as far as the tower within the walls shown on Plan. The cloister garth and the buildings on the west side stand on ground about 10 feet lower, while along the south side of the cloister the ground suddenly descends about 20 feet. It was thus necessary, beneath the vaulted buildings shown on the south-west side, to bring up extensive vaulted cellars, which extended along the south and east sides of the cloister as far as the chapter house. All these under-buildings are clearly shown by Slezer, who represents this abbey with some minuteness as it existed in his time (1693).