MELROSE ABBEY, Roxburghshire.
Amongst the picturesque and beautiful remains of our ancient church architecture, the ruins of Melrose Abbey most deservedly occupy a distinguished place. Apart altogether from the charm which attaches to this edifice from the poetic interest which has been thrown around it, and the attractive nature of the beautiful locality, the architecture of the building is of a high order, and particularly valuable from the richness and completeness of its details, which afford a fine illustration of a period of Scottish architecture the examples of which are not numerous. The building stands in the sheltered and cultivated vale of the Tweed, surrounded by gentle pastoral hills, presenting one of those peaceful sites dear to the Cistercians, by whom the abbey was colonised. It was founded by David I., who brought to it from Rievalle, in Yorkshire, the first monks of the Cistercian order in Scotland. A more ancient Abbey of Melrose had existed from the seventh century, on a broad meadow, nearly surrounded by a “loop” of the Tweed, about two and a-half miles lower down the river. It was established about the year 650, and the first abbot was Eata, one of the chosen band of disciples educated by Aidan, the missionary from Iona, who converted the heathen Northumbrians, and founded the Abbey of Lindisfarne. In the primitive monastery of Old Melrose St. Cuthbert spent much of his early life before passing to more distinguished charges at Hexham and Lindisfarne. Here also the monks of Lindisfarne, when expelled by the Danes, found refuge, bringing with them St. Cuthbert’s sacred body, which, after many wanderings, found a final and worthy resting-place at Durham. This establishment at Old Melrose suffered many vicissitudes, and in the eleventh century was a ruined and desolate place. It afterwards became the retreat of a few monks, amongst whom was Turgot, the confessor and biographer of Queen Margaret, and subsequently Bishop of St. Andrews. A chapel was erected and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, which at first belonged to Coldingham, but was finally presented by David I. to his new Abbey of Melrose.
The latter abbey was founded, in 1136, at a place then called Fordell, and was endowed by King David and his nobles with ample lands. The church then erected was in course of building for ten years. It was consecrated in 1146, and was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. As only a short time had elapsed since the founding of the abbey, the buildings then constructed probably consisted of the residence of the monks and an oratory. These erections were no doubt in the Norman style of the period, of which style some examples are preserved in the other monasteries founded in the district about the same period, such as the Abbeys of Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dryburgh.[132] How long the original structures continued it is now impossible to say, as every trace of them has long since disappeared. From its situation, in the direct path between England and Scotland, Melrose was particularly exposed to danger, and frequently suffered in the wars between the two countries.
Many of the abbots were distinguished men. Waltheof, an early abbot, was reputed a saint and worker of miracles. The connection with the parent house of Rievalle was kept up, and monks from Melrose sometimes became abbots of the Yorkshire monastery. Melrose also sent abbots to other Cistercian houses, including Kinloss, Coupar, Newbattle, Deer, and Balmerino.
The possessions of the abbey soon increased, and it held lands in many parts of Scotland. Its property was considerably augmented, in 1235, by a grant from King Alexander II. of the lands of Ettrick Forest.
In 1246 Abbot Matthew erected many convenient offices and buildings and a magnificent hall on the bank of the river for himself and his successors, but these structures have now disappeared.
In 1291 Edward I. granted protection to the monks of Melrose, but when John Baliol opposed him, he took possession of their lands. These, however, he subsequently restored, on the monks doing homage to him as liege lord. His letters to the sheriffs of counties show how extensively the monastery’s lands were spread, extending even into England. These letters were addressed to the sheriffs in Berwick, Ayr, Jedburgh, Peebles, Edinburgh, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and Northumberland.
Edward II., in 1322, invaded Scotland as far as Edinburgh, and, in retiring from his unsuccessful expedition, he slew the monks and pillaged and destroyed the abbey. The church and other buildings seem to have been greatly ruined on this occasion, and were rebuilt thereafter chiefly through the influence and liberality of King Robert Bruce. In 1326 King Robert granted the monks rents from forfeited lands equivalent to a sum of £2000 (which would now represent £15,000), to enable them to rebuild the abbey, which lay in ruins; and in 1329, shortly before his death, he addressed a letter to his son and successor, recommending the abbey to his favour, and desiring his heart to be buried in the church. Melrose, along with other portions of the south of Scotland, remained in the hands of Edward III. for about forty years.
In 1385 Richard II. carried out another unsuccessful, though destructive, invasion of the south of Scotland. As he retreated homewards he lodged one night in Melrose Abbey, and next morning set fire to it and destroyed it, as he also did to the abbeys of Newbattle and Dryburgh.
About the middle of the fifteenth century Andrew Hunter was abbot. He was confessor of James II., and was employed in many offices of State, being Ambassador to France in 1448, and concerned in negotiations with England till 1460. He was also Lord High Treasurer, 1449-53.