Of this once important abbey only a few fragments now survive. The monastery occupied extensive grounds on the banks of the river Garnock, situated a few miles from the sea in the northern division of Ayrshire known as Cuninghame. The ruins of the south transept of the church may still be seen from the Kilwinning Railway Station towering above the houses of the town.
The site seems to have been occupied in the eighth century by an Irish monk called St. Winnan, who is believed to be the same as St. Finnan of Moville. On the spot sanctified by his cell, a monastery was founded in the twelfth century by Richard or Hugh Moville, said by Pont[35] to have been a knight who fled from England in consequence of his connection with the murder of Becket. He was welcomed by the King of Scotland, who created him Great Constable of the Kingdom, and presented him with the lordships of Cuninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. But the dates are difficult to reconcile. It seems, however, that towards the end of the twelfth century a colony of Tyronensian Benedictines was imported into Kilwinning from Kelso Abbey, and, as usually happened at that period, was speedily endowed with lands and became wealthy. To judge from the style of the surviving architecture, the church must have been erected early in the thirteenth century. The south entrance doorway from the cloisters to the nave ([Fig. 500]), although pointed, contains some lingering Norman enrichments, while the other principal remains indicate the work of the thirteenth century. The history of the monastery is somewhat obscure. The chartulary has been lost, but the names of a number of the abbots are preserved.[36]
Fig. 500.—Kilwinning Abbey. Doorway from Cloisters to Nave.
In the Collections of the Archæological Association of Ayr and Wigton (1878) are printed a number of documents showing agreements between the monks of Kilwinning and others regarding churches and benefices. Amongst other papers there are notices of a charter by Robert I., granting to the monks fishings in Leven and Clyde; a petition by David II., showing that in consequence of wars and inroads the abbot and convent were reduced to a state of want and poverty, and granting them aid; several letters by Pope John XXII., early in the fourteenth century, confirming grants of different churches and patronages; confirmations by Robert II. and Robert III. of prior benefactions and new gifts; grants by James III. and confirmation by James IV. of certain royal grants formerly made to the abbey. An instrument narrates how, in 1512, the precincts of the abbey were invaded by the Earls of Glencairn and Angus on behalf of a rival abbot, thus showing that the monastery began to suffer from the turbulence of that period. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century the abbacy passed into the hands of commendators who, “for the utility and advantage of the said monastery,” as it was expressed, but really in order to secure as much as possible of the spoil, granted charters of the monastic lands to their lay friends and relations. Thus, in 1552, there is a confirmation by Queen Mary of a charter granted by Gavin, commendator of the abbey, in favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, whereby “on the narrative of the usefulness and necessity to the said monastery of a prudent and legal justiciar, chamberlain, and bailie for the administration of justice to the tenants and inhabitants of the lands of the said monastery, and for their lawful defence against any that attempted to trouble them,” and also remembering the good services of the Earl and his predecessors “in the safeguard and defence of the rights and liberties of the said monastery, and especially in opposing by force and resisting malignant and heretical men in these times attempting every year to invade their monastery lands and possessions and to rob their revenues,” the feu right of the office of justiciary, chamberlainry, and bailiacy of certain of the lands of the monastery is granted to the said Earl, together with a salary of £40 Scots. Further charters are also granted to different parties in consideration of sums paid by them, said to be for the repair and restoration of the monastic buildings, which were ruinous and decayed.
In 1565 the abbacy was set apart, along with Paisley, Kelso, Jedburgh, and Newbattle, for the royal charges. By a charter under the Great Seal in 1603-4, the whole lands and possessions of the monastery were raised into a free temporal lordship in favour of Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglintoun.
The office of commendator appears to have survived, and in 1606, after the restoration of Episcopacy, retained the privileges attached to the order, and we find the bishops (who were the commendators) taking their seats in Parliament as formerly. This continued till 1638, when presbytery prevailed.[37]
The buildings of the abbey appear to have been destroyed shortly after the Reformation. According to Knox the Earl of Arran, together with the Earls of Glencairn and Argyle and the Protestants of the west, cast down Fail, Kilwinning, and part of Crosraguel Abbeys, and, as stated by Pont, the work of destruction was completed in 1591. Part of Kilwinning Abbey, however, was repaired and fitted up as a Presbyterian place of worship. This was taken down in 1775, and the present very plain parish church was erected on the site of the choir. Shortly after this time (1789) the building was visited by Captain Grose, who mentions that the tower or steeple was then being repaired by the Earl of Eglinton.