thrown across the nave. The old pillars with their caps and bases have, however, been allowed to remain unchanged on the side next the aisles, where their archaic forms contrast strikingly with the modern plaster work on the other side. An attempt has been made to Italianise the apse also, but the pilasters and entablature fit lamely into the old apse. A wide flight of steps at the west end leads down from the doorway into the church, and has a rather peculiar effect. This no doubt arose from the irregularity of the site. To the west of the church lies the public place, surrounded with plain houses, all arcaded on the ground floor, and presenting a pleasing example of that picturesque feature of the towns of the Riviera. A walk of about three miles through the olive gardens of the valley of the Brague leads to the Antibes Railway station. Biot may of course be visited directly from the latter; there is a good carriage road.
One of the most delightful excursions from Cagnes is that to St Paul-du-Var, and Vence, two of the most interesting old towns of the Riviera. The distance to St Paul is from three to four miles, and to Vence two to three miles further. This may be accomplished either by driving or on foot. A carriage may be hired near the Cagnes Railway Station. The route in driving goes by a rather circuituous road round the west side of the valley of the Malvan, passing within a short distance of the castle of Villeneuve-Loubet. The most direct road is either along the base of the hill on which Cagnes stands, or through the town. For the pedestrian the latter is by far the most agreeable. Starting from the terrace of the old castle (already described), a rough footpath is followed along the ridge which separates the valley of the Malvan from that of the Cagne, and affords a delightful prospect of both. The rich colour of the russet leaves of the forest trees, mingled with the dark green of the pines and the grey tint of the olives, gives a special charm to the walk. Looking northwards the towns of La Gaude and St Jeannet stand out prominently on their rocky heights against the lofty and precipitous mountains immediately behind them; while in the distance the white peaks of the Maritime Alps close the valley of the Var. To the south there is a splendid view of Cagnes with the Mediterranean on the horizon. After half an hour’s walk the footpath joins the main road
FIG. 220. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (from the E.)
opposite St Paul, and near the point where the mule path branches off to descend to the Malvan, before again ascending by a rough and steep track to the town. From the main road a fine view is obtained of St Paul ([Fig. 220]), surrounded with its massive walls, and standing on a detached promontory, with steep terraced slopes descending to the river. Other pleasing and varied prospects of the town and valley occur at intervals amongst the ancient olives in following the above footpath ([Fig. 221]). About half way up the path on the side next the town an outwork on a detached peak is passed, then a ruined fortification bars the road, and finally the ancient gateway and barbican, and the cemetery just outside the walls, are reached, and the main street of the town, which is but a narrow lane, is before us. The architectural interest of the place is at once apparent. On every hand are evidences of genuine ancient and
FIG. 221. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (from the W.)
unaltered work. The doorways ([Fig. 222]) are of old and varied forms, almost every one having a panelled lintel, supported by corbels, many of the former containing carved shields and ornaments, and the latter being enriched with leaves and scrolls. Most of these doorways are of the beginning of the sixteenth century, and indicate early Renaissance work. Others again are carved and moulded with the double curvature of the late Gothic style, and a few shew marks of a simpler and earlier design (Figs. 223 and 224). The windows also contain many specimens of Gothic shafts and mullions, but they are much more altered than the doorways. Even the ancient woodwork of the latter is in many instances retained, and the unpainted oak or walnut give, in addition to the picturesque and fanciful designs, a rich and antique character. One of the most interesting points connected with the main, and almost the only street in the town, is the preservation of its