which gallantly withstood so many sieges, and not a single ancient building is preserved.
FIG. 245. CASTLE OF ST ANDRÉ, NEAR NICE.
The environs of Nice, although full of natural beauties, are remarkably destitute of architectural interest. The few Roman relics at Cemenelum have already been described. Near these is an old convent, where from the churchyard a fine view of the lofty and rugged banks of the valley of the Paillon (which runs through Nice) may be obtained. In the Parvis in front stands a remarkable cross ([Fig. 244]), bearing the image of the crucified seraph who appeared to St Francis of Assisi. The cross bears a quatrefoil on each of its three upper points, with the figure of a Bishop and a Monk carved in the side quatrefoils, and that of the emblematic Pelican on her nest feeding her young in the top quatrefoil. The cross is supported on a twisted marble shaft, some 9 or 10 feet high, having a composite capital, containing a shield bearing the arms of the founder. An inscription runs along the abacus, in which 1477 is legible. This date quite corresponds with the character of the design.
Descending by a steep mule path from the height of Cimiès to the valley of the Paillon past some great monasteries, or similar establishments, including that of St Pons, all surrounded with walls and studded with cypresses, we reach the high road. Following this road for three miles up the valley brings us in view of the Castle of St André, the sketch of which ([Fig. 245]) gives some idea of the nature of the scenery. Passing through the village of St André, and penetrating a short way further up the gorge of the torrent of the same name, Falicon is reached, famous for its grotto and natural bridge. The view looking back upon St André ([Fig. 246]) is strikingly picturesque.
From Nice the railway proceeds eastwards by a long tunnel under the ridge, formerly dominated by the old Castle, on emerging from which we find ourselves in one of the most charming scenes in the Riviera, the land-locked bay of Villefranche. On the margin of this sheltered and beautiful arm of the sea stands the old “Free-town,” surrounded with fortifications, and reflected in the quiet waters, on which, too, there are generally afloat one or two majestic representatives of foreign fleets. Between this and Monaco the railway passes along the narrow strip of shore which lies between the sea and the lofty precipices of tertiary limestone which here tower above it. At one of the sharp turns round the rocks, a first distant glimpse is caught of the old town and Castle of Eza ([Fig. 247]), set like an eyrie on the summit of its bare and lofty pyramidal peak. There is a railway station at the base of the mountain, and one feels tempted to alight and scale
FIG. 246. ST ANDRÉ, NEAR NICE.