ILLUSTRATIONS.
| No. | Page | |
| [1.] | [Frontispiece]. | |
| [2.] | The Departure | [18] |
| [3.] | “Shuffle Board” | [22] |
| [4.] | The Betting Young Man from Chicago | [24] |
| [5.] | “Dear, Sea-sickness is only a Feminine Weakness,” | [27] |
| [6.] | Lemuel Tibbitts, from Oshkosh, Writes a Letter | [29] |
| [7.] | Every Sin I Had Committed Came Before Me | [33] |
| [8.] | Off for London | [35] |
| [9.] | Public Buildings, London | [36] |
| [10.] | The Indian Policy | [39] |
| [11.] | The Emetic Policy | [39] |
| [12.] | A London Street Scene | [45] |
| [13.] | A London Steak | [50] |
| [14.] | “And is the Them Shanghais?” | [53] |
| [15.] | Sol. Carpenter and the Race | [60] |
| [16.] | Leaving for the Derby | [62] |
| [17.] | By the Roadside | [64] |
| [18.] | English Negro Minstrelsy | [66] |
| [19.] | The Roadside Repast | [67] |
| [20.] | The Betting Ring | [73] |
| [21.] | “D——n the Swindling Scoundrel” | [74] |
| [22.] | Egyptian Room, British Museum | [76] |
| [23.] | A Bold Briton Trying the American Custom | [79] |
| [24.] | A London Gin Drinking Woman | [80] |
| [25.] | The Poor Man is Sick | [81] |
| [26.] | “That Nigger is Mine” | [82] |
| [27.] | St. Thomas Hospital | [92] |
| [28.] | Interior of a Variety Hall | [95] |
| [29.] | The Magic Purse | [98] |
| [30.] | The Man who was Music Proof | [100] |
| [31.] | Madame Tussaud | [102] |
| [32.] | Wax Figures of Americans | [103] |
| [33.] | “Digging Corpses is all Wrong” | [105] |
| [34.] | Improved Process of Burke and Hare | [106] |
| [35.] | Isle of Wight | [107] |
| [36.] | The London Lawyer | [110] |
| [37.] | The Old English Way of Procuring a Loan | [118] |
| [38.] | “Beware of Fraudulent Imitations” | [120] |
| [39.] | The Old Temple Bar | [122] |
| [40.] | The Sidewalk Shoe Store | [125] |
| [41.] | “Sheap Clodink” | [127] |
| [42.] | “Dake Dot Ring” | [133] |
| [43.] | A Lane in Camberwell | [135] |
| [44.] | The Tower of London | [136] |
| [45.] | The Jewel Tower | [140] |
| [46.] | Sir Magnus’ Men | [142] |
| [47.] | Horse Armory | [144] |
| [48.] | St. John’s Chapel | [145] |
| [49.] | St. Thomas’ Tower | [146] |
| [50.] | General View of the Tower | [147] |
| [51.] | The Bloody Tower | [148] |
| [52.] | Drowning of Clarence in a Butt of Wine | [149] |
| [53.] | The Byward Tower from the East | [150] |
| [54.] | The Beauchamp Tower | [151] |
| [55.] | The Overworked Headsman | [152] |
| [56.] | The Persuasive Rack | [153] |
| [57.] | The Byward Tower from the West | [154] |
| [58.] | The Middle Tower | [155] |
| [59.] | The Beef Eater | [156] |
| [60.] | The Flint Tower | [157] |
| [61.] | The Traitor’s Gate | [158] |
| [62.] | What Shall We Do with Sir Thomas? | [159] |
| [63.] | The Easiest Way | [160] |
| [64.] | The Suits Come Home | [163] |
| [65.] | The Candle Episode | [168] |
| [66.] | The Little Bill | [169] |
| [67.] | Getting Ready to Leave a Hotel | [169] |
| [68.] | The Last Straw | [170] |
| [69.] | The Cabman Tipped | [170] |
| [70.] | The Universal Demand | [171] |
| [71.] | The Lord Mayor’s Show | [173] |
| [72.] | A Second Hand Debauch | [175] |
| [73.] | The Anniversary Ceremonies | [178] |
| [74.] | In the Harbor | [179] |
| [75.] | Isle of Wight | [182] |
| [76.] | The Unfinished Entries in the Diary | [184] |
| [77.] | Westminster Abbey | [186] |
| [78.] | Exterior of the Abbey | [187] |
| [79.] | Entrance to the Abbey | [188] |
| [80.] | The Poet’s Corner | [191] |
| [81.] | Henry VII.’s Chapel | [193] |
| [82.] | Chapel of Edward | [197] |
| [83.] | Effigy Room | [200] |
| [84.] | The Abbey in Queen Anne’s Time | [201] |
| [85.] | “If She Ever Miscalculates She’s Gone,” | [204] |
| [86.] | The Death of the Trainer | [206] |
| [87.] | The Gorgeous Funeral Procession | [207] |
| [88.] | Monument to the Trainer | [208] |
| [89.] | The Side Show Zulu | [210] |
| [90.] | The Lost Finger | [212] |
| [91.] | On the Thames | [218] |
| [92.] | Sandwiches at New Haven | [222] |
| [93.] | Off Dieppe—Four A. M. | [224] |
| [94.] | “Have You Tobacco or Spirits?” | [225] |
| [95.] | Fisher Folk—Dieppe | [227] |
| [96.] | Fisher Women—Dieppe | [228] |
| [97.] | Fisher Boy and Child | [229] |
| [98.] | The Boys of Rouen | [232] |
| [99.] | Rouen | [233] |
| [100.] | The Professor Stood Before it | [234] |
| [101.] | Cathedral of Notre Dame | [235] |
| [102.] | House of Joan d’Arc | [235] |
| [103.] | Harbor of Rouen | [236] |
| [104.] | St. Ouen—Rouen | [238] |
| [105.] | The Showman in Paris | [240] |
| [106.] | Bloss’ Great Moral Spectacle | [241] |
| [107.] | Tower of St. Pierre | [242] |
| [108.] | Old Houses—Rouen | [242] |
| [109.] | The Professor’s Spectacles | [245] |
| [110.] | Old Paris | [246] |
| [111.] | Liberty, Fraternity, Equality | [247] |
| [112.] | New Paris | [248] |
| [113.] | The Louvre | [250] |
| [114.] | A Boulevard Cafe | [252] |
| [115.] | A Costume by Worth | [253] |
| [116.] | A Magazine on the Boulevard | [254] |
| [117.] | Mr. Thompson’s Art Purchases | [256] |
| [118.] | The American Party Outside a Cafe | [259] |
| [119.] | The Avenue de L’Opera | [261] |
| [120.] | Cafe Concerts | [262] |
| [121.] | The Faro Bankeress | [266] |
| [122.] | French Soldiers | [267] |
| [123.] | Parisian Bread Carriers | [269] |
| [124.] | Queer—to Frenchmen | [271] |
| [125.] | The Porte St. Martin | [272] |
| [126.] | A Very Polite Frenchman | [275] |
| [127.] | “Merci, Monsieur!” | [277] |
| [128.] | Paris Underground | [279] |
| [129.] | Interior of the Paris Bourse | [280] |
| [130.] | The Arc du Carrousel | [282] |
| [131.] | “How Long Must I Endure This?” | [285] |
| [132.] | Tail Piece | [286] |
| [133.] | The Mother of the Gamin as She Was | [288] |
| [134.] | The Mother of the Gamin in the Sere and Yellow Leaf | [289] |
| [135.] | The Aged Stump Gatherer | [290] |
| [136.] | A Talk with a Gamin | [294] |
| [137.] | The Mabille at Night | [305] |
| [138.] | A Mabille Divinity | [306] |
| [139.] | Professionals in a Quadrille | [309] |
| [140.] | A Male Dancer | [310] |
| [141.] | The Grisette | [311] |
| [142.] | Meeting of Tibbitts and the Professor | [314] |
| [143.] | The Cafe Swell | [316] |
| [144.] | Tail Piece | [318] |
| [145.] | Beauvais Cathedral | [319] |
| [146.] | Struggle for the Kingship | [322] |
| [147.] | Of the Commune | [326] |
| [148.] | Tibbitts and Faro Bankeress | [330] |
| [149.] | Tail Piece | [331] |
| [150.] | Palais Royal | [333] |
| [151.] | Vision of the Commune | [335] |
| [152.] | Mother and Bonne | [337] |
| [153.] | The Youthful Bonne | [338] |
| [154.] | The Aged Bonne | [338] |
| [155.] | “Who Put that Ribbon in your Cap?” | [345] |
| [156.] | Corrective Used by Mr. Tibbitts | [348] |
| [157.] | The Coco Seller | [349] |
| [158.] | In Any of the Parks | [358] |
| [159.] | The No-Legged Beggar Woman | [360] |
| [160.] | How the French Sport Kills Game | [362] |
| [161.] | Fishing in the Seine | [363] |
| [162.] | Inside a Paris Omnibus | [364] |
| [163.] | The Showman Shown the Door | [365] |
| [164.] | The Tell Catastrophe | [368] |
| [165.] | Zoological Room | [369] |
| [166.] | Cork Harbor | [370] |
| [167.] | Queenstown | [371] |
| [168.] | Irish Woman and Daughter | [375] |
| [169.] | A County Cork Cabin | [377] |
| [170.] | Interior of Better Class Cabin | [378] |
| [171.] | Royal Irish Constabulary | [379] |
| [172.] | Interior of Cabin | [380] |
| [173.] | A Quiver Full | [381] |
| [174.] | Street in an Irish Village | [384] |
| [175.] | Blarney Castle | [385] |
| [176.] | Free Speech in Ireland | [387] |
| [177.] | In a Bog Village | [389] |
| [178.] | “Drop the Child!” | [391] |
| [179.] | Nature’s Looking Glass | [393] |
| [180.] | Irishman of the Stage and Novel | [394] |
| [181.] | The Evicted Irishman | [395] |
| [182.] | To Market and Back | [396] |
| [183.] | The Real Irish Girl | [397] |
| [184.] | A Small but Well-to-do Farmer | [398] |
| [185.] | Sketches in Galway | [402] |
| [186.] | Affixing Notice of Eviction | [406] |
| [187.] | Eviction | [407] |
| [188.] | The Eviction we Saw | [408] |
| [189.] | Evicted | [409] |
| [190.] | Farming in County Mayo | [410] |
| [191.] | My Lord’s Agent | [413] |
| [192.] | Kind of a Girl My Lord Wants | [414] |
| [193.] | The Woman who Paid the Poor Rate | [416] |
| [194.] | Conemara Women | [418] |
| [195.] | At Work in the Bog | [420] |
| [196.] | Duke Leinster’s Tenants | [422] |
| [197.] | Tenant Farmer | [424] |
| [198.] | In a Discontented District | [426] |
| [199.] | Protecting a Gentleman Farmer | [427] |
| [200.] | Filling the Ditch | [429] |
| [201.] | Ready for Emigration | [431] |
| [202.] | Old but Tolerably Cheerful | [433] |
| [203.] | After a Wholesale Eviction | [435] |
| [204.] | The “Faymale Painther” | [436] |
| [205.] | Old and Not Cheerful | [438] |
| [206.] | The Proper End of Royalty | [441] |
| [207.] | Meath Lads at Crossakeel | [443] |
| [208.] | A Mayo Farmer | [445] |
| [209.] | Mayo Peasantry | [447] |
| [210.] | Inhabitants of a Bog Village | [449] |
| [211.] | Dublin | [452] |
| [212.] | They Glared Ferociously | [456] |
| [213.] | Bog Village | [459] |
| [214.] | Interior French Car | [462] |
| [215.] | They were Lively Children | [464] |
| [216.] | Geneva | [466] |
| [217.] | “Your Hotel is a Swindle, Sir” | [474] |
| [218.] | Group of Swiss Girls | [480] |
| [219.] | The Sweat of Other Men’s Brows | [481] |
| [220.] | The Alpine Guide | [485] |
| [221.] | A Non-Professional Lady Tourist | [487] |
| [222.] | Young Man with Inopportune Remarks | [493] |
| [223.] | “Would You Oblige Me?” | [495] |
| [224.] | “See Me Unmask this Jew” | [497] |
| [225.] | Swiss Timber Village | [501] |
| [226.] | The Slender Bridge | [503] |
| [227.] | A Bit of Climbing | [504] |
| [228.] | Where the Maiden Leaped From | [511] |
| [229.] | The Chamois | [513] |
| [230.] | Taking the Cattle to the Mountains | [513] |
| [231.] | Outside the Chalet | [515] |
| [232.] | Inside the Chalet | [516] |
| [233.] | An Alpine Homestead | [519] |
| [234.] | “I Should Wake Them Cheerily” | [520] |
| [235.] | On the Road to Chamonix | [525] |
| [236.] | The Presumed Chamois Hunter | [530] |
| [237.] | The Fate of Two Englishmen | [532] |
| [238.] | A Frequent Accident | [533] |
| [239.] | The Mer De Glace | [534] |
| [240.] | A Slip Toward the Edge | [535] |
| [241.] | Crevasses | [536] |
| [242.] | The Moraine | [537] |
| [243.] | The Dilemma | [538] |
| [244.] | Rocks Polished by Old Glaciers | [539] |
| [245.] | The Path to the Village | [548] |
| [246.] | Mt. Blanc and Valley of Chamonix | [550] |
| [247.] | The Conscientious Barber | [555] |
| [248.] | The Jungfrau | [557] |
| [249.] | Wood Carving | [559] |
| [250.] | Home of the Carver | [560] |
| [251.] | Female Costumes | [562] |
| [252.] | Our Party at the Giessbach | [565] |
| [253.] | Peasants of East Switzerland | [567] |
| [254.] | Near Brienz | [568] |
| [255.] | Lion of Lucerne | [570] |
| [256.] | End of Pontius Pilate | [573] |
| [257.] | Lucerne Rigi-Rail | [575] |
| [258.] | Ditto from Kanzell | [576] |
| [259.] | Old Way of Ascending Rigi | [578] |
| [260.] | Night Ascent of Rigi | [579] |
| [261.] | Railway up the Rigi | [581] |
| [262.] | Rigi Railway | [582] |
| [263.] | Railway up the Mountain | [583] |
| [264.] | Tell’s Chapel | [584] |
| [265.] | Tibbitts in Concert Hall | [589] |
| [266.] | Entrance Strasburg Cathedral | [593] |
| [267.] | Pig Market, Strasburg | [596] |
| [268.] | The Great Hall | [606] |
| [269.] | Tibbitts Making Plain the Point | [608] |
| [270.] | Front of the Kursale | [612] |
| [271.] | The Swimming Bath | [614] |
| [272.] | The Donkey Enjoyed It | [616] |
| [273.] | The Lichtenthal | [617] |
| [274.] | Promenade in Baden-Baden | [618] |
| [275.] | Charcoal Burners, Black Forest | [619] |
| [276.] | Heidelberg Castle | [623] |
| [277.] | Heidelberg Tun | [626] |
| [278.] | Tibbitts and the Students | [629] |
| [279.] | Rhine Steamer | [630] |
| [280.] | Mannheim | [631] |
| [281.] | Tibbitts in the Cloak Room | [633] |
| [282.] | Mayence | [639] |
| [283.] | Erchenheim Tower | [640] |
| [284.] | Roemer | [640] |
| [285.] | Luther’s Home | [640] |
| [286.] | Street on the Roemerberg | [642] |
| [287.] | The Jews’ Street | [644] |
| [288.] | “Der Hind Leg of a Helty Mule” | [649] |
| [289.] | Cologne Cathedral | [651] |
| [290.] | Death of Bishop Hatto | [655] |
| [291.] | Legend of the Cathedral | [668] |
CONTENTS.
| Page | |
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
The Departure—How the Passengers Amused Themselves—Sea-sickness—Tibbitts,of Oshkosh—The Storm | [17-35] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
London—The Englishman—A Few Statistics—The Climate—A Red-coatedRomance | [18-57] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
The Derby Races—Departure for the Derby—Sights and Scenes—Showsand Beggars—Betting | [58-76] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
What the Londoners Quench their Thirst with—The Kind of Liquor—Tobacco—EarlyClosing | [77-90] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
How London is Amused—The London Theaters—An English Idea of aGood Time—Punch and Judy | [91-100] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
Madame Tussaud—American Worthies | [101-107] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
The London Lawyer—The Solicitor’s Bill | [108-112] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
English Capital—London Quacks—The London Advertiser | [113-122] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
Petticoat Lane—The Home of Second-Hand—The Clothing Dealer—Diamonds—TheConfiding Israelite | [123-134] |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
The Tower—The Royal Jewels—The Horse Armory—Interesting Relics—TheBeef-Eaters | [137-160] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
Two English Nuisances—A Badly Dressed People—An English Hotel—TheEnglish Landlord | [161-172] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
Portsmouth—Nelson’s Ship—In the Harbor—Tibbitts’ Diary | [174-185] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
Westminster Abbey—Seeing the Abbey—Warren Hastings—Epitaphs—ReligiousService—A Little History | [187-202] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
The American Showman—The Trainer’s Widow—Foggerty the Zulu | [203-212] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
Richmond—The Star and Garter—Down the River | [213-219] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
From London to Paris—The Custom House—Normandy—The Cathedral—Onthe Way to Paris | [221-242] |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
A Scattering View of Paris—Drinking in Paris—Wine and Whisky—TheNational Fête | [243-267] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
Something About Parisians—French Cleanliness—The Polite French—TheDisgust of Tibbitts | [268-286] |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
Parisian Gamin—Interview with a Gamin—A Contented Being | [287-299] |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
How Paris Amuses Itself—The Grand Opera—The Wicked Mabille—Gardensother than the Mabille—Tibbitts and the Professor | [300-318] |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | |
The Louvre—Art in the Louvre—The Commune | [320-331] |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | |
The Palais-Royal—A Tale of the Commune—The Wisdom of Therese—TheTwo Lovers | [332-345] |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] | |
French Drinking—The Water of Paris—The Mild Swash | [346-351] |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] | |
Parisian Living—The Market Woman—Parisian Washing—FemaleShop-keepers—The Career of Sam | [352-369] |
| [CHAPTER XXV.] | |
Ireland—Cork—The Jaunting Car—Another Cabin | [370-383] |
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] | |
Bantry—How My Lord Bantry Lives—The Real and the Ideal—SeveralDelusions—The Conversion of an Irish Lady | [384-401] |
| [CHAPTER XXVII.] | |
An Irish Mass Meeting—An Eviction—Boycotting—One Landlord whowas Killed—How he was killed—Patsey’s Dead | [403-518] |
| [CHAPTER XXVIII.] | |
Some Little History—The Question of Lease—A Foiled Landlord—BantryVillage—The Boatman and Nancy | [419-438] |
| [CHAPTER XXIX.] | |
England, Ireland, Scotland—Land Troubles in England—The RoyalFamily—The Palace and the Workhouse—Women’s Work | [439-460] |
| [CHAPTER XXX.] | |
Paris to Geneva—A Night on the Rail—Geneva—Affecting Anecdote—Piracyon Lake Erie—The Irate Guest—Too Much Music | [461-477] |
| [CHAPTER XXXI.] | |
Switzerland—The Rhone—A Geneva Bakery—Swiss Roads—FemaleClimbers—Ascent of Mont Blanc—A Useful Man at Last | [478-491] |
| [CHAPTER XXXII.] | |
Chillon—Tibbitts and the Jew—On the Lake | [492-501] |
| [CHAPTER XXXIII.] | |
From Geneva over the Alps—Mountain Climbing—Legend of theGorge—Martigny—A Swiss Cottage—Alpine Ascents | [502-517] |
| [CHAPTER XXXIV.] | |
Over the Alps—Tibbitts’ Idea—Dangers of Ascending Mt. Blanc | [518-529] |
| [CHAPTER XXXV.] | |
Going up the Mountain—The Mer de Glace—The Gorge—SomethingAbout Glaciers | [530-545] |
| [CHAPTER XXXVI.] | |
In Switzerland—Tibbitts’ Letter—Berne and Bears—Barbers | [546-555] |
| [CHAPTER XXXVII.] | |
Lake Thun and Beyond—Interlaken—Wood Carving—Geissbach | [556-568] |
| [CHAPTER XXXVIII.] | |
Lucerne and the Rigi—Up the Rigi—A Mountain Railway—The RigiKulm—Tell’s Chapel | [569-587] |
| [CHAPTER XXXIX.] | |
Zurich and Strasburg—Beer and Music—The Cathedral—The WonderfulClock | [588-604] |
| [CHAPTER XL.] | |
Baden-Baden—A Few Legends—Up the Mountain—To old Schloss | [605-621] |
| [CHAPTER XLI.] | |
Heidelberg—The Great Cask—The Students | [622-630] |
| [CHAPTER XLII.] | |
Mannheim—Opera—A Treatise on Treating | [631-639] |
| [CHAPTER XLIII.] | |
Frankfort-on-the-Maine—Red Tape—Jews’ Street—Lovely Gardens | [640-651] |
| [CHAPTER XLIV.] | |
Down the Rhine—Bingen—Mouse Tower—Tibbitts’ Romance | [652-663] |
| [CHAPTER XLV.] | |
Cologne—The Cathedral—Eleven Thousand Virgins—Home | [664-672] |
TO
Charles A. B. Shepard,
The “Poetical Bookseller,”
This book is dedicated (without permission)
as a
Tribute to a most Reliable Friend,
a Thorough Business Man, and
One whose steady devotion to everything right and proper,
and whose
hatred for everything mean and disreputable,
was never questioned by any one
who knew him.