The town of Santa Fé is watered by azequias or small canals, which are used in every section of the Territory, with which to irrigate the soil. Near the town, and on a hill adjoining, stands the ruins of Fort Marcy, which was used by the American Volunteers during the conquest of the country in the year 1846. This fort commands the town; and, for the purpose which governed its building it answered very well. There are several good boarding-houses in Santa Fé, and one hotel, which is well fitted up and well kept. It forms the rendezvous for the whole town. The commanding general of the military department which comprises the Territory of New Mexico, with his staff, makes this town his head-quarters. There is also a garrison of American soldiers stationed in the town. The governor of the territory, the judges, surveyor and all the government officials of any importance, make this place their home. The Territorial buildings, being the halls of legislation, and such other buildings as are necessary for the State and Territorial purposes, both finished and under process of erection, are located in Santa Fé. On one side of the plaza there stands a long, low building known as the Palace. No one, however, would be aware of the fact if not informed of it; for the building has more the appearance of having been intended for a rope-walk than for the assemblage of savants who were to discuss and arrange matters of state and public interest. Notwithstanding the small pretensions in the way of architecture which the Palace presents, nevertheless, within it, there have lived old Mexican governors who ruled their people with a rod of iron, and whose fiery impulses went forth as just and equitable law. These tyrants—for it was very seldom that the poor and ignorant New Mexicans were favored with a good, wise and just governor—governed on the principle of self aggrandizement. Being far separated from their home government, they took care to smother all evil reports, while the good, only, were allowed to circulate; and these, so far as the home government was concerned, solely by their authority, in order to have the desired effect to retain them in office. In this they were usually successful, as they generally retained their lucrative positions until cut off by death, or until they had amassed a fortune which made their tasks burdensome. Many of these men might have been envied by the richest among Americans, so far as wealth is considered. They were so envied by the wealthy men at the capital of the republic. These provinces of Mexico were the Indies where troublesome opponents were to be sent by government, to suck, like leeches, the public treasury, and thus obtain their fill to repletion. When the United States came into possession of the territory of New Mexico, affairs were somewhat tempered to the state of reason and justice; but, a people who had so long been kept down, could not at once appreciate the value of the changes; consequently, they have been slow in elevating their heads to the proper standard of men. The legislature of New Mexico, as it has been recognized under the constitution of the United States, resembles other forms of territorial governments. This statement is true in theory, but not in practice; for it is impossible to collect an uneducated people, unused to self government, and allow them to steer their own bark as law-makers, without observing that they make many openings for serious mistakes to creep in, which are and should be severely criticised. The pioneer laws, as they came from the first New Mexican legislature, were faulty in the extreme. They seemed to point out wickedness as a punishment for wickedness. If we desired to afford our readers a laugh, we should permit them to read many of these laws. The simple perusal of them would cause merriment equal to the most laughable comedy. Had it not been for the few white men, who, from time to time, have found their way into the legislature of New Mexico, the whole body would long since have lost themselves in the depth of learning which their untutored minds had undertaken to engraft upon their statute books. The members of this body, for a long time, turned their attention more to the emoluments which naturally accrued from their position, than to endeavors to steady the helm of government for the good of their country. In order to save their pay, they studied economy, which caused them to make a beggarly appearance, and, in the eyes of the white men, they were often contemptibly mean. Greatly predominating in numbers, the Mexicans of course had no difficulty in ruling the country; and they naturally preferred their own countrymen in filling the law-making department of their government. The consequence was, that they thus obtained a crowd of legislators who could hardly read. By the aid of a few schools, an enlightened press, and the examples of a few worthy Americans, they are gradually mending their ways in this respect; and the time will come in a few years, when the legislature of New Mexico will compare favorably with its sister territories; but this, not until education has made her indelible mark upon the people.
The town of Santa Fé is provided with a Roman Catholic church, which, under the judicious management of the present bishop and clergy, is doing what it can to improve the condition of the Mexican population. Other religious denominations have not yet been fully developed; although the attempt is being made to establish churches of the Protestant faith on a sure and permanent footing; but this, although we regard it as certain, will take time, for the majority of the people lean strongly to the Roman Catholic faith. It is a very singular fact that among a population of seventy thousand souls included in the limits of the Territory of New Mexico, there have been such feeble and vain attempts made by Protestant missionaries to bring the people to their mode of thinking. The task might have been impossible when the country was under the jurisdiction of old Mexico; but, since it has changed masters, this excuse does not hold good. The Mexicans, as a body, learn readily; they easily discern between right and wrong; and, as the field for Christian enterprise to work in is large enough for all sects, it is strange that the Protestant church is not found laboring in the good cause, side by side with its Roman Catholic friend. It is true, there are a few persons struggling on under the auspices of the Protestant church; but they are so few that they are seldom met in the great expanse of the country. Santa Fé has long been celebrated as having a depraved population; but, as honest and honorable men are now working with satisfactory success for a reformation, the day cannot be far distant when this town will redeem itself. It is true that, not many years back, Santa Fé was filled with gamblers and desperadoes of all grades; but, at the present time, law and order is beginning to predominate, and it is to be hoped that the next generation will see a better state of affairs. The vices which have characterized the inhabitants have not been confined, by any means, to the Mexicans; but rather they have been exemplified in those Americans with bad characters, who have, from time to time, crept in among the people. These men, in several instances, have set examples which the most debased Mexican would hesitate to follow.
The appearance of Santa Fé, from an outside view, is anything but striking. Its houses, like most Mexican buildings, are seldom higher than one story, and, with few exceptions, they are entirely wanting in beauty. They are built after what may be styled a Mexican mode of architecture, and consist of a series of rooms which encircle an open square or court, the access to which is through a large portal. These buildings are usually huddled together towards the centre or plaza, while, in the outskirts of the town, they are greatly scattered. The arrangement of the streets appears as if they were mere matters of accident rather than matters of system or intention. The town is ornamented by few, if any, trees, while the general appearance of the adjacent country, as has been seen, is barren. The markets of the town are but sparingly supplied with a variety, and those articles which are the most common, bring, comparatively speaking, good prices. Not many miles from Santa Fé there are famous silver mines, which for many years were worked almost entirely by hand. Within a recent date machinery has been introduced by some enterprising Americans, and the precious silver ore is being brought to light in large quantities. In point of amusement the people still cling to the pleasures of the fandango; and, as this town is much in advance of any other in the Territory, the Santa Fé balls are carried on, sometimes, on quite a grand scale. The majority of them are the places of resort for the free classes of society. The more respectable people seldom attend them, and then only when they are certain that they will find the ceremonies conducted in the spirit which administers really to pleasure and not to excess. The distance from Santa Fé to the Missouri River is in the neighborhood of nine hundred miles. The road, for the first one hundred miles towards the Santa Fé terminus, is rough and hilly; but, after that, it strikes out on the open plains, and is as level as can possibly be for such an immense distance. It is over this beautiful road that we have several times described Kit Carson as he traveled to and from the United States, though, more frequently, as has been seen, he preferred routes of his own selection, which enabled him, with his small escorts, to elude the vigilant watch of hostile Indians. The rich merchandise which finds its market in New Mexico passes over this road; and, during the summer months, the heavily-laden caravans are continually traversing it.
CHAPTER XVI.
A fresh Campaign set on foot—Col. Cook in Command—Kit Carson goes as Guide—The Apaches and Utahs leagued together—The Roughness of the Country and the Privations to which the Command was exposed—The Indians overhauled—A running Fight—The Advantages gained—The Chase resumed—The Apaches resort to their old Tricks—Col. Cook is obliged to return to Abiquiu—A Utah taken Prisoner through Mistake—Kit Carson goes to Taos and has a Conference with the Chiefs of the Utah Nation—Cook's second Scout—He is caught in a furious Snow-storm and obliged to return to Rio Colorado—Major Brooks and Reinforcements come to the Rescue—Major Brooks on the Lookout, but fails to find the Indians—Carleton's Expedition—Kit Carson goes with it as Guide—The Adventures met with—Kit Carson's Prophecy comes true—The Muache Band of Utahs summoned by Kit Carson to a Grand Council—Troubles brewing among these Indians—The Small Pox carries off their Head Men.
To retrieve the ground lost, and also, to show the Jiccarilla Apaches that their recent victory had tended only to stimulate the movements of the Americans to a display of greater activity and energy, after a brief space of time, a large body of regular troops were made ready to take the field against them. The commander of this expedition was Col. Cook of the 2d Regiment of United States dragoons. That officer chose for his principal guide Kit Carson, whose peace duties as Indian Agent had been abruptly arrested by the warlike attitude of some of his Indians. It was necessary, also, that Kit Carson should be on the ground in case the red men were overtaken, in order to ascertain whether, or no, the Utahs were mixed up with the operations of the Apaches. A large branch of the former tribe were part and parcel of his agency, and the two nations were known to be on very friendly terms with each other; consequently, it was surmised that they might be secretly, and under disguise, acting together in the war.
Col. Cook employed, besides the troops of the line which were under his command, some forty men selected from among the Mexican and Pueblo Indians, whose duties were to act as spies and trailers.
These Pueblos were selected for spies on account of their being familiar with Indian habits and their mode of warfare. They were taken from among the best hunters which the Pueblo villages could furnish. They presented themselves provided with their own horses, rifles, and, in most cases, with their own ammunition, and were supplied only with their rations of food. When it was practicable, they were allowed to kill game; and, being very expert at it, they seldom returned from a hunt open-handed. Their peaceful mode of life prevented them from engaging in any deep league with the hostile Indians; but yet, there is no doubt that when the different tribes were at war with the whites, the Pueblos harbored the warlike Indians and supplied them, in many instances, with such articles as they stood most in need of. Their policy in thus acting might have been to retain the friendship of these Indians and thus prevent their committing any depredations on themselves. The Pueblos may have taken advantage of the state of affairs when war existed, and doubtless frequently did, under disguise of the enemy, become guilty of crimes which could easily have been proven against them. The Mexicans have often tried to criminate the Pueblos for thus acting; but they have proceeded with such bungling policy, that it has seldom happened that anything criminal has been definitely proven against them. If a part of them have thus acted, there is not the least doubt but that the majority are guiltless. They are, as a body, loyal to the government of the United States; but, not so much from love of the Americans as from being shrewd. They know it is for self interest to keep good friends with the strongest power. On these war scouts they rendered valuable service, and in this light, have been long regarded with favor by the whites.
The command of these forty Mexicans and Pueblo Indians was conferred upon James H. Quinn, a well-known and prominent citizen of New Mexico. This gentleman became intimately associated with the Territory of New Mexico soon after that country was annexed to the United States. In politics, military life, farming and mercantile pursuits, he was most actively engaged, and by his talents and industry took a prominent position and became an influential member of society. He had some faults; (who has not?) but his unexpected death came so suddenly upon his friends that they could only think of him for the many good qualities both of his head and heart. Hence, his faults were most willingly passed over in silence.