Johannisberg, September 15, 1841.—Yesterday I did not go out all day though the weather was beautiful. I was very glad to rest; moreover, so much time is spent here in receiving a succession of callers that country life properly so called is impossible.
Mayence, September 16, 1841.—I left Johannisberg yesterday and was much touched by all the kindness of the master and mistress of the house, and very glad that I had been able to pay them a visit. I arrived here in good time, and found Frau von Binzer, Paul Medem and Baron Zedlitz awaiting me. The baron, who is a well-known poet, has now taken the place of Gentz with Prince Metternich on account of some political publication. While I was dining with these people, three cannon shots announced the steamboat by which the Princess of Prussia was travelling up the Rhine on her way to Weimar through Mannheim. The boat stopped here for ten minutes, and as it put in some thirty yards from the hotel I went to spend these ten minutes on board with the Princess; she was not expecting me, and showed the utmost satisfaction at this small attention.
The evening was warm and beautiful and we drove round the town, the outskirts of which are pretty, and went to see the statue of Gutenberg by Thorwaldsen, which is a handsome piece of work. On our return we heard that a courier from the Rothschilds had arrived from Paris, bringing the news of a small rising in Paris during which a pistol shot had been fired at the Duc d'Aumale, who, however, was not hit.[ [39]
Metz, September 18, 1841.—I arrived here yesterday evening in a torrential downpour of rain, which makes travelling extremely unpleasant. At the hotel I found General d'Outremont, who was in command at Tours for a long time. He is at Metz for inspection and asked to see me. He told me that the disturbances at Clermont were even more serious than those at Toulouse, in fact the newspaper that some one has lent me regards them as very serious.
Paris, September 20, 1841.—I have now returned to the great Babylon. The good and excellent Barante was awaiting my arrival. He has spent the evening here and given me the following news: the disturbances in Clermont seem to have been of the most serious character, a real Jacquerie and the most disquieting demonstration that has taken place in France since 1830.[ [40] Barante who has been absent for three and a half years, was astonished and horrified by the general degradation, especially in political morality, which is obvious here. He wittily said that he had not yet come across a man in Paris who had a good word for another. He proposes to spend six weeks at his house in Auvergne and will then stay here for the winter and not return to St. Petersburg till the spring. Sainte-Aulaire started forty-eight hours ago for his new post in London. His wife will not follow him until February and Madame de Flahaut will not go to Vienna until she has married her daughter, Emilie, for whom no suitor has yet appeared.
Bertin the elder is dead and Bertin de Veaux is suffering from a fresh attack.
Paris, September 21, 1841.—Madame de Lieven routed me out yesterday at a very early hour. She came to ask questions and told me nothing: she can repeat to all Europe what I have told her concerning the corner of the world known to me; I persisted in speaking kindly of every one, which vexed her, and eventually told her that people were thinking and saying everywhere that it was she who made and unmade ambassadors, at which she was considerably embarrassed. Moreover, what I was saying was quite true; it is believed everywhere and I think with reason. She asked me to dinner on Thursday at Beauséjour.
Humboldt also called; I told him my Silesian news. Finally M. de Salvandy arrived, delighted to be ambassador at Madrid and prepared to return for the session of the Chamber of Deputies and to retain his vice-presidency. My son, Valençay, came to dinner with me and told me of the death of old Hottinger, which I am sorry to hear. He was a most honourable man, deeply attached to the late M. de Talleyrand and a friend of Labouchère. Many recollections of the past are disappearing outwardly with terrible rapidity.
There is some small continuous agitation in the distant quarters of Paris; I do not understand the reason for it; it seems to be the normal state of Paris. A return to the great outbursts of 1831 would be to restore our youth but not our strength, at a time when we should grow old in order to grow greater. Fortunately the troops are in excellent spirits everywhere, but are also required everywhere. The authorities are determined and even anxious to make vigorous use of them. This is all very well and it is fortunate for them that they have the power and have no foreign war upon their hands in addition to these internal disorders.
My letters from Auvergne[ [41] are not satisfactory. Pauline shall certainly spend her winter in the south at Rome, if I do not go to Nice. She is so anxious to see me that I am deciding for Nice, where I shall go in the month of December and return in March. I hope the change will also do my niece Fanny good. For me personally it is a great sacrifice. I should like a long rest and to shut myself up at Rochecotte, but Pauline is really ill and warmly expresses a desire to see me, and her husband joins in supporting her wish with such persistence that I cannot hesitate.