Vienna, August 25, 1850.—The extent of human folly is inconceivable: the King of Denmark has now made a large addition to it by his ignoble morganatic marriage. Yesterday brought the news of his abdication.[ [239]
I have a number of letters to-day from every direction. Madame de la Redorte writes from the Pyrenees where she seems to be mistaking boredom for depression, two very different things. Madame Mollien writes from Claremont to say that she will soon return to France; she seems to think that Louis Philippe will not last much longer as he is at the end of his strength. There was a proposal to take him to Richmond, but the Duchesse d'Aumale has had a miscarriage which has delayed their removal: apparently every member of the family is now asking what he is to do, what path he can pursue, or what policy he can adopt upon the passing away of the old leader, who is said to have become as irritable in temper as he is weak in health. This is a sad end to a career of contrasts, on which history will probably pronounce a severe judgment as a whole. The man who takes an orphan's place should either be able to hold it, or should perish in defending it. Queen Marie Amélie is said to be more saintly, more resigned, more courageous, and more admirable than ever.
There is little political talk here; even revolution has not destroyed a certain frivolous habit of gossip which is not displeasing when it is not overdone. However, people are generally satisfied with the unusual vigour which the Dresden Cabinet has displayed for the last few months: this is attributed to the Minister, Count Beust, who has adopted energetic measures and has expelled twenty malcontent professors from the university of Leipzig at one stroke.[ [240]
Yesterday I visited the Lichtenstein palace, so fabulous for its magnificence. At the same time whatever income may be forthcoming, to spend eighty thousand florins upon a single chandelier is unpardonable. However, there is more to admire than to criticise in this fine work of modern luxury.
Vienna, August 31, 1850.—A rumour is in circulation here that King Louis Philippe is dead. I have not heard whether the news is authentic or not.[ [241] Vienna, notwithstanding recent catastrophes, has taken remarkably little part in political life, and the Prater, the theatre, and gossip are the dominant occupations now as formerly. I went to see the church of St. Stefan again which always makes a great impression upon me. I also looked in at the graceful and remarkable church of Maria Steig, adjoining the Convent of the Ligurians who were driven out by the Revolution of 1848.
Sagan, September 5, 1850.—I have made an excursion by way of Dornbach which belongs to Princess Lory Schwarzenberg, and through Felsberg and Eisgrub which belongs to the Lichtensteins. Princess Lory Schwarzenberg does the honours of her delightful villa most agreeably; the site and the view are alike charming. Felsberg is a winter establishment, shut in, warm, sheltered and rather gloomy; there is plenty of room, but the apartments are ill-proportioned and the garden is insignificant. There is a fine chapel, a pretty theatre room, many family portraits, and some old furniture of curious form and date. The most striking part of the house is the rooms of Prince Eugène of Savoy which he occupied when he went hunting with his friend Prince Lichtenstein. Eisgrub is a dainty, gay, and well-cared-for estate, with a large park which adjoins the woods, in a country covered with lakes and full of every kind of game. The kennels, the stables, and the riding-school are all arranged in English style.
We nearly had a serious accident on the railway: it was dark, and a peasant's horse escaped from his field and lay down across the rails; the train passed over it at full speed and killed the animal; the consequence was such a shock in our carriage that we were thrown from one side to the other. The train was stopped and help was brought, but we eventually came through without further disaster, apart from a great fright.
Sagan, September 12, 1850.—I am glad to hear that the newspaper reports were once more false which said that the Duchesse d'Orléans had summoned Thiers to her.
The newspapers relate a terrible scene of demonstration against General Haynau at London, which is hardly consistent with the much boasted hospitality of mighty Albion.[ [242]
Sagan, September 16, 1850.—I have just received a letter from M. de Salvandy dated from the Hague on the 10th of the month. He says that he is on his way from London to Frohsdorff to perform a mission. From his letter I should think that he is a somewhat important figure in the negotiations which he seems to have undertaken officiously and officially; which is the more correct adverb I cannot discover from his complicated account.