On the 14th of July, between two and three o’clock in the morning every body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince’s dock; this required much manœuvering, and at last we took in sail. After an hour’s labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King’s Arms Hotel, in Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many formalities. In America, it was quite the contrary: there they never thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner possible.
[CHAPTER XXVIII.]
Stay in England, and return to Ghent.
Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by Washington.
The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.
I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.
The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons.
For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of them were idle.
Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.