The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines, left London at eleven o’clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six o’clock I landed at Ostend. At four o’clock, P. M. I proceeded by the way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations. I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a bustling present struggling for future improvement.
On the 28th of July, at four o’clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent.
[II.1] Accommodation is here so difficult to procure, that the senators are obliged to sleep three upon one mattress laid upon the floor: their food consists, it is said, almost without exception of salted pork.
[II.2] In this part of the country, they have either feather beds or moss mattresses; if these latter are old, the moss clots together, and it is like lying on cannon-balls.
[II.3] [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the artists of the Theatre Français, if, unfortunately, one visit to the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!] —Trans.
[II.4] Among the slave traders, a Hollander from Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable beings, driven to despair.[II.4a]
[II.4a] The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man, not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as it should be, that the slave trade is carried on, almost as vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere, whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers owning West India Colonies, connive at the trade, which is fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa, to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the American, or any other government really wished to put an end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished, by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade in February last, from a part visited by the writer.—Trans.
[II.5] Colonel Croghan was one of the most distinguished officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.
[II.6] [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the efficiency of the police of which can never be enough admired.] —Trans.
[II.7] I have already made some remarks with regard to the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master. The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or “aux quatre piquets.” In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or sells him to work on the plantations.