The market street in the old quarter.
After the young Conradin (kon´-rah-deen), the last of the Norman dynasty in Naples, was executed, the country was ruled by the house of Anjou (English, an´-jo; French, ong-zho´), then by the French (Louis XII), and then by Ferdinand of Spain. Don Carlos improved the city and surrounding country. In 1806 the city was invaded by Napoleon, who established his government there for a short time. The Bourbon (boor-bong´) rule came to an end in 1860, when Frances II was dethroned by Garibaldi. From the time it was founded till the present day poor Naples has been so torn to pieces by the many nations contesting for it that there is but little left of its ancient beauty or grandeur, and it now depends upon its wonderful situation, which, with the beautiful places about it, holds the visitor enchanted.
THE BEAUTY OF NAPLES
PORTA CAPUANA, NAPLES
Capua Gate, one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, was built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano, with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola.
There are travelers of years of experience who have declared that the site and surroundings of Naples are not excelled in beauty anywhere in the world. You enter the Bay of Naples with the island of Ischia (es´-kee-ah) on one side and on the other the island of Capri (kah´-pree). Immediately before you lies Naples, stretching out from the water’s edge up the hills beyond; the second largest city in Italy, with a population of over five hundred thousand. Back of it and to the southeast is Vesuvius. History has taught us to look with feelings of respect and awe upon that smoke-crowned cone. On the shore, to the south, Herculaneum (her-kew-lay´-nee-um) and Pompeii (pom-pay´-yee) are to be seen, and as the coast curves out to the peninsula you come to Sorrento (sore-ren´-to) and the road along the mountainside that takes you on a scenic tour of matchless beauty, including Amalfi (ah-mahl´-fee), Vietri (vee-ay´-tree), and Salerno (sah-ler´-no).
The interest in Naples is not only scenic, but historic. It is not the achievements of monarchs nor the monuments of artists that attract you. In such matters Naples is poorer than other towns in Italy. But the relics rescued from the explorations in Herculaneum and Pompeii afford an interest that is unique and compelling—an interest, too, that is continually growing, for new discoveries are being made from time to time.
Many are the scenic trips to be taken from Naples. It is a point of departure for pleasure tourists in almost every direction. The ascent of Mount Vesuvius is interesting; but that is the interest of curiosity. Where visitors find the greatest happiness is in the trips to outlying points, especially to the peninsula of Sorrento, to the island of Capri, and to Amalfi and Ravello. It is at these points that we find the greatest beauty of the Mediterranean. It seems indeed as if the great inland sea and mankind had joined there to make a pleasure ground beyond compare.
It is in and about Naples that the traveler will care to linger longest. There is so much to be seen there—and, when satisfied with pleasure jaunts and scenic trips, there is a serenity of life in Naples, and a soft, sunny climate that, to repeat Byron’s words, “lend to loneliness delight.” One friend of mine prolonged a trip, planned for a week, until it filled out twelve months. There is much to interest and delight one in all the seaport towns of the Mediterranean. After all has been said of its varied shores, however, one is apt to conclude by giving the palm of distinction in beauty and interest to Algiers, to Monte Carlo, and to Naples with its environs.