APPENDIX D.
GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c.
It would be difficult to speak with too much weight on the subject of bread, especially where invalids are concerned, and that article in the Pyrenees is essentially bad—we might almost say unfit for food. With the exception of Bagnères de Bigorre—and then only when specially ordered—and in the season, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain resorts is abominably sour. Travellers do eat it, because they have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him to supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a half-franc telegram told him the news, and our bread never failed to be at the right place on the right day. The bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average price of 10 frs. per day—perhaps a shade less—was what our hotel expenses amounted to; including—coffee and milk, bread and butter, eggs or kidneys or chops for the first breakfast; table d'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higher than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a spring or autumn tour—out of the season—and rather easier than a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without having previously written and made terms. We invariably wrote, and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good rooms, good food, and dry beds.
It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including vin ordinaire), and we consider that in the spring, with several excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives—such as Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. &c.—25 frs. or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees.
Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not excluding whiskey, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; but it must be understood at the same time that bread will in like manner be delivered only where the railway or diligence runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no official communication, they must depute some agent to receive letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will prove costly.
The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes.
Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see
Appendix A) a post-office belongs.
Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes.
The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word.
Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the £1 English, and banknotes or gold will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at the larger resorts.