Twixt France and Spain; Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees

by E. Ernest Bilbrough

Trains and steamers—Bordeaux and its hotels—Lamothe —Morcenx—Dax—Puyoo—Orthez—First impressions of Pau—The hotels and pensions—Amusements—Pension Colbert—Making up parties for the Pyrenees—The Place Royale and the view—The castle of Pau and its approaches—Origin of name—Historical notes—The towers—Visiting hours—The tapestries—The wonderful bedstead—The delusive tortoiseshell cradle—The "Tour de la Monnaie"—The park—The Billères plains—Tennis and golf—The Route de Billères and the Billères woods—French sportsmen—Hunting—Racing—Lescar and its old cathedral—Fontaine de Marnières—The bands—The Parc Beaumont —Ballooning—The Casino—Polo—The cemetery—The churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques—The "old world and the new"—Rides and drives—to Bétharram—The start—Peasants and their ways—Vines trained by the roadside—Sour grapes—The "March of the Men of Garlic" —Coarraze—Henry IV.'s Castle—Bétharram—The ivied bridge—The inn—The "Via Crucis"—Assat and Gélos—The Coteaux—Perpignaa —Sketching with a donkey-cart—Over the Coteaux to Gan—The drive to Piétat—Picnicking and rejected attentions—The church—Feather moss—Bizanos—Carnival time—"Poor Pillicoddy" —"Idyllic Colbert."

CHAPTER II.

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE.

Backward spring—Hôtel Beau Séjour—Effect of the war of '70 on the English colony—The "Coustous"—The Church of St. Vincent—Géruzet's marble works—Donkeys—Up the Monné—Bains de Santé—Bains de Grand Pré—Salut Avenue and baths—"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"—Luncheon—Daffodils—The summit and the view—The "Castel-Mouly"—The Tapére—Mde. Cottin—Mont Bédat—Gentians—The Croix de Manse—"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"—Market-day—The old iron and shoe dealers—Sunday—A cat fight—The English Church—To the Col d'Aspin—"The Abbé's Song"—Baudéan—Campan, its people and church—Wayside chapels—Ste. Marie—The route to Gripp, &c.—Payole—The pine forest—The Col d'Aspin—The view from the Monné Rouge—"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"—The Menu at Payole—Hurrah for the milk!—Departures—Divine music—Asté—Gabrielle d'Estrelle—The ivied ruins—The church— Pitton de Tournefort—Gerde—The pigeon traps—The cattle market —The Jacobin tower—Theatre—Grand Etablissement des Thermes —Hospice Civil—Eglise des Carmes—Mount Olivet—Madame Cheval, her cakes and tea—Bigorre in tears

CHAPTER III.

LOURDES.

The journey to Tarbes—The Buffet and the Nigger—Lourdes station in the wet—Importunate "Cochers"—Hôtel des Pyrénées—"Red tape" and Porters—Lourdes in sunshine—Sightseeing—The "Rue de la Grotte"— "The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"—Candle-sellers—The Grotto—Abject reverence—The Church—Saint Bernard—Interior of church—The panorama—Admirable effect—Rue du Fort—The castle—The view from the Tower—Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels

CHAPTER IV.

ARGELÈS.

Road v. rail—Scenes, sublime and ridiculous—Hôtel d'Angleterre—Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"—A forbidden path—The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous—Argelès church—Route Thermale—Ges—The tree in the path—"A regular fix"—Serres—"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" —A frothing stream—A fine view—Pigs in clover—Salluz —Ourous—Contented villagers—The high road—The bridge on the Pierrefitte road—Advice to sketchers—"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"—The "witch of the hills"—Large green lizards—"Jeannette's Lamb"—Round the Argelès valley—Château de Beaucens—Villelongue— Soulom—The old church—Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—St. Savin—The verger and the ancient church—Cagots—"The Organ's Tale"—St. Savin's tomb—The Château de Miramont—Jugged Izard—Market-day—Sour bread and the remedy—Arrival of the first parcel.