CONTENTS.
| PAGE | |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Where to go to?—An unknown country—The expedition—Ourinventor—Our equipment—The doctor—A useful remedy—Thestart—Venice—Trieste | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| On board an Austrian Lloyd—Voyage to Spalato—The coast ofIstria and Dalmatia—Old Venetian cities—Our fellow-passengers—Pola—A Turkish officer—The Morlaks—Why is England a triangle?—Sebenico—Arrival at Spalato | [11] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Dalmatian cuisine—The Emperor Diocletian—Remains ofthe old palace—We make two friends—Wines of Dalmatia—Customsof the Morlaks—A visit to Salona—A great fête—Costumes—Morlak singing | [28] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Voyage to Cattaro—A bora—The gulf of Narenta—The Herzegovina—The Island of Curzola—Ragusa—The Bocche di Cattan—Thefrontier of Montenegro—The fortress of Cattaro—Eveningpromenade—Personal attractions of the Cattarine ladies—Rough roads—Prince Nikita's coach—Bosnian refugees—ABosnian's luggage | [45] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| March to Cettinje—The pass across the frontier—Montenegrinwarriors—Cettinje—A land of stones—The Prince's Hotel—Frontier disputes—The commission—Montenegrin method ofmaking war—A game of billiards—A Draconic law—A popularprince | [60] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| The occupation of a Montenegrin gentleman—The public library—Prince Nikita's prisoners—Albanian versus Montenegrin—A Montenegrin loan—The prince as a sportsman—The museum—The hospital | [78] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Journey to Scutari—Atrocities—A runaway—The vale of Rieka—A Montenegrin sailor—The lions of Rieka—The perils of thenight | [90] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| A great victory—A good old custom—On the Lake of Scutari—The londra—The debateable land—Boat song—Encampment—Scutari—A reminiscence of Cremorne—The brothers Toshli—Willow-patternplates—At the British consulate | [100] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Condition of Albania—Her races—The Mussulman—The Christian—The Arnaut—Prince Scanderbeg—Turkish rule—Albanian language—Gendarmes on strike—A Scutarine beauty—Courtship and marriage—Nuns | [116] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| The bazaar—Turkish gipsies—The vendetta—An assassin—A wayto pay debts—Bosnian refugees—A card-party—Paving stones—Burglars—Army doctors—Change for a ten pound note—Ourhorses | [132] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Our Lady of Scutari—A miracle—The fête—A funeral—A drunkenArnaut—Our escort—Two more Britons—Warm discussion—War—Marco | [151] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| March to Podgoritza—An Albanian khan—Our cook—The Fund—Across the lake—Night visitors—The frontier—Podgoritza—The armourer—The war minister—Dobra Pushka | [163] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| War preparations—Our camp visitors—An impromptu ball—English-consul fashion—Robbers—Ruins of Douka—A dangerousbath—Bastinado—Karatag yok mir | [181] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| An escort—A Turkish dinner-party—Brigands—Our sportsman—Achief of the league—Objects of the rebels—Achmet Agha—Ameeting of the league—The boulim-bashi of Klementi—An Arnautchieftain | [194] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| To Gussinje—The valley of the Drin—A rough road—In themountains—Hospitality—A pretty woman—A scientific frontier—Franciscans—Dog Latin—Marco Milano | [215] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| The mission-house—Gropa—The mandolin—A letter from Ali Bey—A trap—Our throats in danger—Retreat—Nik Leka—Proverbs—A pleasant evening | [238] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Rosso and Effendi—A barbaric feast—Patoulis—Mead—The futureof Albania—The Italia Irridenta—Sport in Meriditia—DickDeadeye | [251] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| The coffin—A Pasha's death—Horse-dealing—The postman—Brigands—An hotel bill—Down the Bojana—Dulcigno—Pirates—Farewell | [268] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| PAGE | |
| Spalato | [26] |
| Bocche di Cattaro | [48] |
| Walls of Cattaro | [49] |
| Cettinje | [65] |
| The Londra | [102] |
| Scutari Fishing Harbour | [109] |
| Podgoritza | [177] |
| A Scientific Frontier | [229] |
ALBANIA.
CHAPTER I.