If pig iron is used as ballast, the interstices between the pigs can be fitted up with small fragments of scrap iron, which can be purchased very cheaply.
If the spaces between the timbers are not filled with Portland cement, by which the bilge is kept quite sweet, the limbers or holes through the bottom timbers must be kept clear, so that the bilge water cannot accumulate anywhere and become offensive, but will run down freely to the pump well.
With this object, a small chain is generally kept rove through the limber holes. By drawing it backwards and forwards the limbers are cleared of shavings or other obstacles that are blocking them up.
We may here remark that it is important to arrange the pump-well so that it can be got at in a moment; if the pump is choked, it can thus be quickly cleared.
To keep the inside of a vessel sweet, tar the bottom timbers and plankings before putting the ballast in; this of course also serves to preserve the wood.
The Anchor.—A good anchor should combine various qualities, the chief of which, so far as a yacht’s anchors are concerned, are, holding power, exemption from fouling, and easy stowage. Trotman’s patent anchors appear to us to be the best suited for small yachts. They are manufactured in every size. The two arms of a Trotman’s anchor are in one solid piece and oscillate on a pivot in the shank, so that the arm that is holding the ground is spread out by the strain on the chain; while the other arm folds up along the shank and so offers no projection round which the chain can get foul when the vessel swings. This anchor has great holding power, and is easily stowed on deck. Patent stockless anchors are now made, in which the arms oscillate not to and from the shank, as in Trotman’s, but transversely to it, so that the two arms enter the ground together. These anchors are well spoken of by those who have tried them.
Setting up Rigging.—The forestays, main shrouds, and other portions of a yacht’s standing rigging are now very seldom made of hemp, but of galvanized wire. These must always be set up taut as soon as they show signs of slackness, but not quite so taut as hempen stays are set up, for wire does not stretch like hemp does. Wire shrouds set up too taut put an enormous strain on the sides of a boat, and will in course of time pull them quite out of shape. The mast should not be so rigidly stayed down that it has no play; on the contrary, when sail is set, a mast should be allowed to bend and so take upon itself a considerable proportion of the strain before any is thrown upon the weather shrouds.
The shroud lanyards are of rope, but are not long enough to give sufficient play by stretching; however, they do give some life and spring to the rigging, whereas the iron screws with which the shrouds on some small yachts are set up cannot give and take in the least, must strain the boat, and seem to us wholly objectionable, though they do save some labour to an indolent mariner.
To set up a shroud, get it taut with a watch tackle (see ([Fig. 12])—the smallest yacht ought to carry at least one watch tackle, or “handy billy,” as sailors call it; it is useful for a variety of odd jobs—then reeve the lanyards through the dead-eyes and make the ends fast.
When a yacht is under way in a fresh breeze the weather shrouds are very taut and the lee shrouds slack. So the lee shrouds can easily be set up by hand, and when the vessel has gone about on the other tack the other shrouds will become the slack ones and can be set up in the same manner.