Philadelphia, May, 1850.


CONTENTS.

Introduction,[13]
[CHAPTER I.]
Departure for the Mines—The Victims—Adventures of a Night onSan Francisco Bay—Voyage in a Launch—My Companion Higgins—Resolutionsof the Passengers—The Bay of San Pablo—TheStraits of Carquinez—Benicia—The Bay of Suisun—The Sacramento—BeautifulScenery—Montezuma—Monte Diablo—Camp on Shore—Hala-chum-muck—Firingthe Woods—Schwartz’s Rancho—A “manifestdestiny” Man—Involuntary Baptism—Sacramento City—TheEmbarcadero,[25]
[CHAPTER II.]
Arrival of our Party—The Mountaineer—A “prospecting” Expedition—TheStart—California Skies in November—A Drenching—Go-aheadHiggins—“Camp Beautiful”—John the Irishman—The Indian’sGrave—A “rock” Speech—The Return—Herd of Antelope—Johnson’sRancho—Acorn Gathering—Indian Squaws—Novel Costume—TheRancheria—Pule-u-le—A Bear Fight,[35]
[CHAPTER III.]
Yuba River—A Clean Shirt an Expensive Luxury—Yankee Pedler—TheUpper and Lower Diggings—Foster’s Bar—The Gold-Rocker—Gold-Diggingand Gold-Washing—Return to the Embarcadero—CaptainJohn A. Sutter—Curious Currency—Sutter’s Fort—Sam Brannanand Co.—Washing Clothes—Salmon Shooting—Green Springs—Weaver’sCreek—A Teamster’s Bill,[49]
[CHAPTER IV.]
Our Log Cabin—Pi-pita-tua—Increase of our Party—The Dry Diggingsof Weaver’s Creek—The “Pockets” and “Nests”—Theory of the GoldRegion—My First Day’s Labour in the Placers—Extravagant Reportsfrom the Middle Fork—Start for Culoma—Approach of the RainySeason—The “Devil’s Punch-Bowl,”[59]
[CHAPTER V.]
Sutter’s Mill—Discovery of the Placers—Marshall and Bennett—GreatExcitement—Desertion of the Pueblos, and general Rush for theMines—Gold-Mine Prices—Descent into a Cañon—Banks of the MiddleFork—Pan Washing—Good Luck—Our Camp—Terrific RainStorm—Sudden Rise of the River,[67]
[CHAPTER VI.]
Mormon Exploration of the Middle Fork—Headquarters of the Gold-hunters—TheNorth Fork—Smith’s Bar—Damming—Great Luck of aFrenchman and his Son—Kelsey’s Bar—Rise and Fall of the Rivers—Returnto Weaver’s Creek—Agricultural Prospects—Culoma Sawmill—AnExtensive and Expensive Breakfast—“Prospecting” on theSouth Fork—Winter Quarters—Snow-storm—A Robbery—SummaryJustice—Garcia, Bissi, and Manuel—Lynch Law—Trial for attemptto Murder—Execution of the Accused—Fine Weather—How the Goldbecame distributed—Volcanic Craters,[77]
[CHAPTER VII.]
Monotonous Life at Weaver’s Creek—Dry Diggings Uncertain—Discoveryof a Rich Ravine—Great Results of One Day’s Labour—Invasionof my Ravine—Weber and Dalor—The Indian Mode of Trading—AMystery—Settlement of Weaverville—Price of Gold-dust in theWinter of 1848—Gambling—Cost of Provisions—Opening of theSpring—Big Bar—Attack of the Land Scurvy—Symptoms and Treatment—LuckyDiscovery—Progress of Culoma—Arrival of the FirstSteamer—Broadway Dandies wielding Pick and Shovel—Indian Outrages—Captureand Execution of Redskins,[89]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
Extent and Richness of the Gold Region of Upper California—Are the“Gold-washings” inexhaustible?—A Home for the Starving Millionsof Europe and the Labouring Men of America—Suicidal Policy of ourMilitary Governors—Union of Capital, Labour, and Skill—A Word toCapitalists—Joint-stock Companies—The Gold-bearing Quartz of theSierra—Experience of Hon. G. W. Wright—Extraordinary Results ofpulverizing Quartz Rock—The Gold Mines of Georgia—Steam Enginesand Stamping Machines—Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco,[103]
[CHAPTER IX.]
The Mexican System of Government—Establishment of the LegislativeAssembly of San Francisco—Seizure of the Town Records—Addressof the Assembly recommending the Formation of a State Government—Interferenceof Brevet Brigadier-General Riley—Public Meeting—Organizationof the State Convention—The Constitution—The Elections,[113]
[CHAPTER X.]
Growth of San Francisco—Number of Houses erected—Prices of RealEstate—Rents—Wages of Mechanics and Labourers—Gambling—PricesCurrent—Climate—Churches—Steamboats—Statistics of Shipping,&c., &c., &c.,[121]
[CHAPTER XI.]
Weber—Sullivan—Stockton—Hudson—Georgetown—Sam Riper—TheSlate Range—The “Biggest Lump” yet found in California,[125]
[CHAPTER XII.]
Recapitulation—Population of the Mining Region—Average Amount ofGold Dug—Requirements of a Gold-Digger—The Best Season—Inwhat kind of Soil is Gold Found?—Washing Machines—Californiaa Habitable Country—The Learned Professions,[131]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
The Old Towns of California,[139]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
The New Towns of California,[149]
[CHAPTER XV.]
Lower California,[159]

INTRODUCTION.

On the 26th day of September, 1846, the 7th Regiment of New York State Volunteers, commanded by Colonel J. D. Stevenson, sailed from the harbour of New York under orders from the Secretary of War, to proceed to Upper California. The objects and operations of the expedition, the fitting out of which created some sensation at the time, are now too well understood and appreciated to require explanation. This regiment, in which I had the honour of holding a lieutenant’s commission, numbered, rank and file, about seven hundred and twenty men, and sailed from New York in the ships Loo Choo, Susan Drew, and Thomas H. Perkins. After a fine passage of little more than five months, during which we spent several days pleasantly in Rio Janeiro, the Thomas H. Perkins entered the harbour of San Francisco and anchored off the site of the town, then called Yerba Buena, on the 6th day of March, 1847. The remaining ships arrived soon afterwards.

Alta California we found in quiet possession of the American land and naval forces—the “stars and stripes” floating over the old Mexican presidios. There being no immediate service to perform, our regiment was posted in small detachments through the various towns.

The now famous city of San Francisco, situated near the extreme end of a long and barren peninsular tract of land, which separates the bay of San Francisco from the ocean, when first I landed, on its beach was almost a solitude, there being not more than twelve or fifteen rough houses, and a few temporary buildings for hides, to relieve the view. Where now stands the great commercial metropolis of the Pacific, with its thirty thousand inhabitants, its busy streets alive with the hum of trade, were corrals for cattle and unoccupied sandy hills.

With the discovery of the gold mines, a new era in the history of California commences. This event has already changed a comparative wilderness into a flourishing State, and is destined to affect the commercial and political relations of the world. Between California as she was at the period of the cession to the United States and as she is at this time, there is no similitude. In two short years her mineral resources have been developed, and she has at once emerged from obscurity into a cynosure upon which nations are gazing with wondering eyes. Her mountains and valleys, but recently the hunting grounds of naked savages, are now peopled with a hundred thousand civilized men; her magnificent harbours crowded with ships from far distant ports; her rivers and bays navigated by steamboats; her warehouses filled with the products of almost every clime, and her population energetic, hopeful, and prosperous.