CONTENTS
| PAGE | ||
| I. | Some of the Tourists | [3] |
| II. | Guide-Books and Guides | [35] |
| III. | On the Water | [60] |
| IV. | Christian Europe | |
| PART I. EUROPEAN EUROPE | [95] | |
| PART II. THE UNVISITED NORTH | [154] | |
| PART III. THE MISUNDERSTOOD WEST | [162] | |
| V. | Mohammedan Europe | |
| PART I. THE GRAND SIGNOR | [182] | |
| PART II. JERUSALEM AND THE WAY THITHER | [205] | |
| VI. | Inns | [240] |
| VII. | On the Road | [284] |
| VIII. | The Purse | [313] |
| Special References | [381] | |
| Bibliography | [389] | |
| Index | [407] | |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| Departure of a Tourist | [Frontispiece] | |
| (British Museum MS. Egerton 1222, fol. 44.) | ||
| A Pilgrimage Scene | [18] | |
| From a woodcut by Michael Ostendorfer (1519-1559) orperhaps by his master, Albrecht Altdorfer. Both livedat Regensburg, where the scene of this picture is laid, thisshrine of Our Lady of Regensburg being a regular pilgrimagecentre (British Museum). | ||
| The Cheapest Way | [22] | |
| "Les Bohémiens" (no. 1) by Jacques Callot (1594-1635).The artist ran away from home to Italy when ayoungster and fell in with company of this kind on theroad. The second state (1633; British Museum) has beenreproduced in preference to the first as being in no wayinferior and having the advantage of the verses appendedto them by another traveller of the time, the Abbéde Marolles. | ||
| A Typical Town-Plan | [52] | |
| Map of Venice, illustrating especially the disregard ofscale. From H. de Beauveau's "Relation journalière,"1615. | ||
| A Typical Map | [54] | |
| Part of Flanders, from Matthew Quadt's "GeographischHandtbuch," 1600. Illustrates the approximateness ofdetail and the absence of roads, especially as contrastedwith the indications of waterways. But it must be notedthat cartography made as great advances during theperiod here dealt with as surgery during the nineteenthcentury. | ||
| A Channel Passage-Boat | [64] | |
| From Münster's "Cosmographie," 1575 (ii. 865—partof the map of Germany). | ||
| Ship for a Long-Distance Voyage | [72] | |
| Dutch vessel, showing the open cabins at the stern inwhich Moryson preferred to sleep. From J. Fürtenbach's"Architectura Navalis," 1629. | ||
| Lock between Bologna and Ferrara | [82] | |
| From J. Fürtenbach's "Newes Itinerarium Italiæ,"1627. There were nine of these in thirty-five miles. Fürtenbach'ssketch shows an oval basin as seen from above,with lock-gates at the down-stream end only. He givesits measurements as large enough for three vessels, withwalls twenty ells high. | ||
| Gate of St. George, Antwerp | [122] | |
| The gate as it appeared about the middle of the sixteenthcentury (Peter Bruegel the elder: Bibl. Royale de Belgique),showing also the long covered waggon which waspractically the only land conveyance in use, apart fromlitters. | ||
| Venetian Mountebanks | [134] | |
| Painted between 1573 and 1579; from a Stammbuch(British Museum MS. Egerton 1191). Concerningthese mountebanks the French traveller Villamont writesin 1588, 'And if it happens that they [i.e. the 'sights'of Venice] bore you, go and look at the 'charlatans'in St. Mark's Place, mounted on platforms, enlargingon the virtues of their wares, with musicians by theirside.' | ||
| Public Executions | [136] | |
| The "Supplicium Sceleri Froenum" of Jacques Callot(1592-1635). The first state of the etching seems to beunobtainable for reproduction, this being from a photograph(the only one hitherto reproduced?) of one of thebetter copies of the second state, almost equally rare in agood condition (Dresden Museum). | ||
| Dangers of the Northern Seas | [156] | |
| According to Münster's "Cosmographie" 1575 (ii.1724). | ||
| At Montserrat | [164] | |
| Montserrat and its hermitages, with the Madonna andChild in the foreground and two pilgrims. From BritishMuseum Harleian MS. 3822, folio 596. The twopilgrims are obviously the writer of the manuscript,Diego Cuelbis, of Leipzig, and his companion, JoelKoris. They visited Montserrat in 1599. | ||
| An Irish Dinner | [178] | |
| Referring more particularly to the MacSweynes, "whoseusages," says the author, John Derricke, in his "Imageof Irelande," 1581, "I beheld after the fashion there setdown." From the copy (the only complete one known)in the Drummond Collection in the Library of the Universityof Edinburgh. The cut also illustrates the contrastsin Irish life as seen by the foreigner, referred to inthe chapter on Ireland. | ||
| An Example of Turkish Fine Art | [190] | |
| Miniature illustrating some of the characteristics ofTurkish art which Della Valle and other contemporarytravellers prized so highly. The brilliant colouring ofthe original throws into relief much detail in the flowerswhich is necessarily lost in reproduction. (From Brit.Mus. Add. MS. 15,153; a copy of the Turkish translationof the Fables of Bidpai, dated 1589.) | ||
| Pilgrims leaving Jaffa for Jerusalem, 1581 | [210] | |
| From the MS. of Sébastien Werro, curé of Fribourg(Bibl. de la Société Economique de Fribourg). Showingalso the fort at Jaffa, the caves in which pilgrims had tolodge until permission was given to depart, and the peremptorymethods of the Turks when a pilgrim got out ofthe line of march. | ||
| At Mount Sinai | [222] | |
| From Christopher Fürer's "Itinerarium" (1566). | ||
| Arms of a Jerusalem Pilgrim | [238] | |
| Arms of Sébastien Werro, curé of Fribourg, Switzerland,surmounted by the arms of the Knights of the HolySepulchre, showing that he received that knighthood onthe occasion of his pilgrimage thither, 1581. The title-pageof the account of his journey written by himself(Bibl. de la Société Economique de Fribourg). | ||
| Two German Kitchens | [254] | |
| The 'fat' and the 'lean.' Plates 58 and 63 of J. T. deBry's "Proscenium Vitæ Humanæ" ("Emblemata Sæcularia").From the copy of the first edition (1596) inthe Bodleian Library at Oxford. | ||
| German Bathing-Places | [268] | |
| From Münster's Cosmography; two of the woodcutsare from the French edition of 1575 (ii. 1020-21), theother from the Latin edition of 1550. Visitors to Berlinwill find the subject more artistically illustrated by the"Jugendbrunnen" of Lucas Cranach the younger, toolarge for reproduction here to do it justice. | ||
| The Red Gate, Antwerp | [272] | |
| As it was about the middle of the sixteenth century (plate Iof Peter Breugel the elder's "Prædiorum Villarum ...Icones"; Bibl. Royale de Belgique), showing also the innwhich, according to the custom so convenient to late arrivals,was usually to be found outside the gate of a town. | ||
| A Main Road in Alsace | [284] | |
| Showing ruts and loose stones. From Münster's "Cosmographia"(1550; p. 455). | ||
| A Sign-Post | [294] | |
| From the 1570 edition of Barclay's translation ofBrandt's "Ship of Fools." | ||
| "The hande whiche men unto a crosse do nayle Shewyth the way ofte to a man wandrynge Which by the same his right way can nat fayle." | ||
| Benighted 'Sight'-seers | [312] | |
| From Josse de Damhouder's "Praxis Rerum Criminalium," 1554. | ||
| A Passenger-Boat from Padua | [328] | |
| From the "Stammbuch" (1578-83) of Gregory Amman in the Landesbibliothek, Cassel. | ||
| Rabelais receives some Money | [342] | |
| Rabelais' receipt for money received by him against abill of exchange such as travellers used. Photographed(with M. Heulhard's transcription) from the latter's"Rabelais, ses Voyages, et son Exil." | ||
| Lithgow in Trouble | [348] | |
| From the 1632 edition of his "Rare Adventures." | ||
| Travellers attacked by Robbers | [354] | |
| No. 7 of Jacques Callot's "Misères de la Guerre"; aphotograph of the British Museum copy of the secondimpression (1633). The second state has been chosen inpreference to the first, as including the verses of theAbbé de Marolles, himself a traveller; the clearness of theetching not having suffered in the second impression. | ||
| "Wolves" | [356] | |
| Another wood-cut from Derricke's "Image of Irelande,"or rather, part of one, the size of the original. It representsDerricke's best wishes for Rory Oge, the 'rebel,' butis none the less applicable generally. | ||
| A Souvenir | [360] | |
| A letter which was on the way between Venice and Londonin October, 1606, when the bearer was attacked byrobbers in Lorraine, showing the tears and damp-stainsit received in consequence. The letter is from Sir HenryWotton, then ambassador in Venice; it was picked upand forwarded to Henry IV of France, who sent it on toLondon. It is now in the Public Records Office, No. 74in Bundle 3 of the State Papers, Foreign (Venetian).The bearer, Rowland Woodward, was paid £60 on Feb.2, 1608, as compensation and for doctor's expenses, buthad not fully recovered from his injuries by 1625. (Cf.L. P. Smith's "Life and Letters of Sir Henry Wotton,"i, 325-8, 365 note, and ii. 481.) | ||
| A Scholar Traveller | [390] | |
| François de Maulde (1556-97); portrait by J. Sadeler(Bibl. Royale de Belgique). He was only about thirtywhen this portrait was done, but his sufferings as a traveller(see Bibliography) would alone account for his wearylook. The inscription belonging to it runs:— "Tristia sive secunda fluant, in utrumque parato Dulce mihi in libris vivere, dulce mori est." | ||