The art of pruning properly is one that is acquired by considerable practice and observation. The first is necessary that the actual work may be well and cleanly done, and it is only by observing the manner and times of flowering of the different trees and shrubs which go to constitute a well-kept pleasure-ground that the proper time to prune can be thoroughly understood. The manner of pruning varies considerably, some pinning their faith to a slanting cut towards a bud; some preferring a straight cut; while others again are content with simply slashing off the useless wood in the quickest possible manner. The former is the best method, as it does not present a surface for the lodgment of water, an important point with those shrubs that are of a pithy nature in the centre of the wood, as the presence of water will quickly cause the stems to rot and render the plant unsightly, even if it escapes serious injury. All stems that are an inch or more in diameter should be tarred over to keep out the wet, which either rots them directly or injures them indirectly by making a moist, congenial home for the various fungoid diseases to which so many of our exotic trees and shrubs are liable.
Many shrubs which have been in one place for some years, and which have become stunted or poorly flowered, are often given a new lease of life by a hard pruning in the winter, cutting away all the old wood entirely, and shortening the remainder. With a good feeding at the same time, they will throw up strong young shoots, full of vigour, which will bear fine and well-coloured flowers. Of course, a season of blooming will be lost by doing this, but it will be amply compensated for in after years by a healthy plant in place of a decrepit and unsightly one. The list appended includes practically every flowering tree and shrub hardy in this country, with the proper time of pruning it. Those not specified flower on the old wood.
When shrubs that by nature flower freely and are rightly placed with regard to soil and position refuse to bloom, root pruning will sometimes effect an alteration.
CEANOTHUS AZUREUS AT KEW.
Abelia.—This genus is barely hardy, and, in most localities, is usually pruned sufficiently or too much by frost. A moderate thinning of the shoots in spring is sufficient.
Acanthopanax.—There are three species of this genus hardy in this country, and of these A. ricinifolium requires no pruning beyond the cutting away of side-shoots to a single stem, as it attains the dimensions of a tree in Japan, its native country. A. sessiliflorum and A. spinosum are low-growing shrubs, and require an occasional thinning out, which is best done in late summer to allow the remainder to thoroughly ripen before winter.
CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, VAR. MARIE SIMON.
Actinidia.—A climbing genus, easily grown in warm, sheltered localities. They require very little pruning, but should be watched in spring when growth has commenced, or the twining shoots will get into a tangled and unsightly mass. Any growth not required should be cut away in winter.