The chiefs, clad only in lava-lavas (a kind of wrap-around skirt which reaches the ground) and garlands of green leaves, settled themselves around the room each in his preordained position, according to rank.
Ava, a slightly narcotic drink, is made from the fibrous roots of a local plant, which is mixed with water according to a very precise ritual. The resulting liquid is then passed to each in turn and drunk in accordance with a ceremonial formula. We had studied up on the ceremony in advance, had removed our watches and all jewelry as demanded by etiquette, and were very careful not to offend by stretching our legs out in front of us, or by standing up inside the house.
As guests of honor, we were served first, from the polished half-coconut shell. Each of us carefully spilled a few drops on the matting in front of us and uttered the proper incantation (Manuia—Good luck!) before draining the cup. We could only hope we had not disgraced ourselves or our country.
Back in Pago Pago we again took up our bustling activities. Thanks to our rented house we were able to spread out a bit and, while Barbara worked on her book, the boys and I set ourselves to painting and redecorating the cabins. The haul-out we had planned proved impossible, as we were too heavy for the cradle, but we got far enough out of the water to have a good look at the bottom and found it in pretty fair shape.
Since we had lingered so long, we were forced to shift our plans and skip British Samoa. More and more we were realizing that a trip such as ours must be a constant series of compromises. If we go to this place we must miss that one; if we stay longer here we must skimp our visit there. Weather conditions and the length of the seasons places limits on the amount of time we can spend in any one area, while hundreds of islands must be bypassed because one simply can’t go everywhere. Had we allowed ten years for the trip instead of four, it still wouldn’t have been enough but, even so, we were infinitely better off than those who travel by plane or cruise ship with only a day or two in each port and no way to meet people.
And so, knowing we would have no time at all in Fiji if we didn’t get going, we sailed from Pago Pago on October 9, bound for Suva.
Throughout our nine-day passage we all scanned the sea with more than usual attention, for a ship not much larger than the Phoenix had disappeared mysteriously only a few days before and all shipping in the area had been alerted. Joyita, a charter boat operating out of Apia, had departed for the Tokelaus, less than 250 miles away, but had never arrived. The government boat from Pago Pago had joined with British ships and planes from Apia to comb the area, but without success.
We did not sight any wreckage of Joyita, but on the fifth day we came across what was, on the face of it, another mystery. Sighting the island of Niuafoo to the northwest, we decided to make a detour to investigate. This island is referred to in the Pilot Book as “Tin Can Island,” due to the local custom of floating mail out to passing ships in a watertight container. No one, however, attempted to float anything out to us and, even with the aid of binoculars, we could see no sign of any inhabitants save for a couple of horses up in the hills. Intrigued, we sailed all the way around the island, rather close in. On the northeast tip we saw a village with a number of houses still under construction, but no sign of a living soul. It was as if everyone had simply walked away a few minutes before.
This was indeed a weird situation and we speculated endlessly. Even if everyone had gone on an excursion into the interior for some reason, surely there would have been old people staying behind, there would have been dogs around—and pigs—and chickens. And, no matter where they were, the sight of our boat—an unusual visitor—should certainly bring out at least one curious inhabitant!
Puzzled, we sailed on. Not until we reached Suva did we learn that the entire population of Niuafoo, under the control of Queen Salote of the Tongas, had only recently been evacuated because of a volcanic eruption and the threat of further disturbances.