The course of that fight is retold in the very conformation of the valley, yet somehow the picture is inadequate. The drama is not quite worthily staged. The place is too homely and pastoral for the scene of that great Saga which Taillefer chanted between the embattled hosts at Hastings; and which has since thrilled the hearts of generations{298} of warriors, as Sidney’s was thrilled by the tale of Chevy Chase. We need a more rugged environment for the memory of a departed demi-god. “He who aspires to be a hero,” said Dr Johnson, “should drink brandy!” And perhaps, while he is about it, he might get killed in a Deva gorge.

There is a softer lay for the minstrel who would linger by the braes of Burguete; a tale of two true lovers, who, as usual, were distressingly ill-starred. Their story is even more ancient than the doughty deeds of arms that we have just been rehearsing; for it relates to the days of Charlemagne’s illustrious grand-sire, Charles Martel. Othman ben Abu Neza, the Moorish warden of the marches, had espoused a Christian bride, Lampegia, daughter of Duke Eudo of Aquitaine; and fleeing with her across the mountains to seek refuge from his indignant suzerain, was overtaken in the pass of Roncesvalles, and slain in his lady’s arms. The unemotional historian is convinced that the marriage was political, and hints that both Eudo and Othman were conspiring against their respective liege lords. But at least he will grant us a certificate as to the authenticity of the final catastrophe: and he flatly declines to go further even for Roland and his Peers.{299}

Battlefields lie thick in Navarre, and even the Vale of Thorns is not absolutely the last of them. A second battle of Roncesvalles was contested upon the heights of Altobiscar, at the very crest of the Pass, in 1813. Here the British had been posted for six weeks, covering the blockade of Pamplona; and had greatly vexed the soul of their general by persistently deserting in twos and threes every night.

Why these seasoned soldiers, at this very hour of their triumph, should have been seized with so strange an epidemic, is a problem which might take a good deal of arguing. The only contemporary theory was the suggestion that they were finding things slow! But their fighting qualities did not seem to have got much affected. Soult finally attacked them in person with much superior numbers: and they offered a most resolute resistance, only giving ground after night-fall, when it was evident they were being outflanked. Cole, the hero of Albuera, led them stubbornly back along the mountain ridges towards Pamplona; and the act was played out at Saurauren, where he arrived just in time to seize the hill.

The ascent of the Pass upon the Spanish side is but trifling. A few brisk turns in the track, and{300} we have climbed from the abbey ruins to the summit of the col behind. Before us the road to France drops coil below coil into the deep green valley, a long descent of over three thousand feet. The actual frontier is some dozen miles further, at the village of Valcarlos; where a modest little bridge, shepherded by a horde of sentries, spans the waters of the infant Nive. But the spirit of Spain lags behind us up here upon this breezy saddle. Here is the true parting of the nations; and as we turn our faces plainwards, we feel that we are taking our leave.

Farewell and adieu to you, fair Spanish ladies!
Farewell and adieu to you, ladies of Spain!
For we’ve received orders to cross the salt waters;
We hope before long we shall see you again!

{301}

INDEX

[A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [Q], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [W], [X], [Y], [Z]

Abándames, [21], [28], [30], [39], [42]
Abderahman I., Caliph of Córdova, [296]
Abu Walid, Alfaqui of Toledo, [208]
Alarcon, Battle of, [267]
Alba de Tormes, [163], [173]
Albarracin, [255]
Alberche, River, [212-213]
Alcántara, [230-235]
Bridge, [92], [231-235]
Monastery, [53], [234]
Alfonso VI. of Castile and Leon, [124-125], [140], [142], [202], [208], [269]
Alfonso VIII. of Castile, [60], [208], [267]
Alfonso XI. of Castile and Leon, [180]
Alfonso V. of Portugal, [150-151]
Alfonso, Prince of Castile, [258], [281]
Alguazils, [53], [79], [80]
Al Manzor, Vizier of Córdova, [85-86]
Mountain, [161], [221]
Almaraz, Bridge, [92], [224]
Almoravides, [202]
Altobiscar, Mountain Ridge, [299]
Alxaman, Moorish Emir, [35]
Andalusia, [60], [202]
Aragon, [61], [168]
Aránjuez, [191], [193-195]
Arapiles, [164]
Arlanzon, River, [266], [268], [274]
Armada, The, [95], [107], [189]
Arriondas, [37-38], [42]
Arroyo Molinos, Battle of, [224]
Arzobispo, Bridge, [214]
Astorga, [68-71], [75], [78], [177]
Asturias, Eastern, [15-16], [24-42]
Western, [93], [113-131]
Augustus, Emperor, [68], [228], [246]
Autos da Fé, [205], [261-262]
Ávila, [176-183], [190], [192]
Barcelona, [296]
Basques, [289], [296]
Bathers, [120]
Bavieca, [270-271]
Becerrea, [76-77]
Beggars, [278-280]
Béjar, [173-176], [235]
Bellotas, [116]
Bembibre, [75]
Benavente, [133-136]
Battle of, [134-135]{302}
Berruguete, Alonzo, Sculptor, [207]
Betánzos, [106], [108-110]
Bidassoa, River, [6], [293]
Bilbao, [5-7], [9]
Birds (Wild). Eagles, [21], [229];
Falcons, [213];
Hoopoes, [156];
Magpies, [157];
Ospreys, [22-23];
Partridges, [73];
Storks, [157], [222], [229], [232]
Biscay, Bay of, [5-7], [39]
Bivar, Rodrigo Diaz de. See Cid.
Borgoña, Felipe de, Sculptor, [207]
Borrow, George, [54], [103], 108 note, [115-117]
Briviesca, [82], [282]
Buenavista, [46], [48], [50]
Bull Fights, [171-173], [208], [273], [289]
Búrgos, [60], [257], [264-277], [280-281], [286]
Castle, [275-277]
Cathedral, [273-274]
Monasteries, [267-268], [280-281]
Palaces, [270]
Siege, [275-277]
Burguete, [294-295], [297-298]
Cabezon, [19], [42]
Cacabellos, [72], [75]
Cáceres, [81], [221-224], [229], [235]
Cafés, [13-14], [69-70], [273]
Calderon, Pedro, Dramatist, [205]
Camps, Celtic and Roman, [90-91]
Cángas De Onis, [30-33], [37], [39]
Cantabrian Mountains, [15], [19-20], [43], [66], [152], [161], [282]
Cares, River, [28-29]
Cardena, San Pedro de, Monastery, [271]
Carillo, Archbishop of Toledo, [151], [258-259]
Carlists, [54-55]
Carpio, Bernardo del, [296]
Carranza, Archbishop of Toledo, [262]
Carreño, [29-30]
Carrion, River, [51], [286]
Castaños, General, [68]
Castile, Kingdom, [60-61], [202], [207]
Old, [7-23], [43-45], [176-185], [243-258], [266-284]
New, [185-214], [237-243]
Castles. Benavente, [134];
Búrgos, [275-276];
Magueda, [211];
Mérida, [225];
Olite, [291];
Ponferrada, [73];
Segóvia, [249-250];
Toledo, [205]
in Spain, [282-283]
Castro Gonzalo, Bridge, [135-136]
Castropol, [113-114]
Castro Urdiales, [7-10], [19]
Cathedrals. Avila, [180];
Búrgos, [273-275];
Leon, [58-59];
Lugo, [79];
Orense, [92];
Oviedo, [122];
Paléncia, [264];
Pamplona, [290-291];
Plaséncia, [217];
Salamanca, [164-165];
Santiago, [86-87];
Segóvia, [253-254];
Toledo, [205-208];
Tuy, [97];
Zamora, [145-146]{303}
Catharine of Aragon, Queen of England, [182]
Cervera del Pisuerga, [45]
Cervantes, Miguel. See Quixote, Don.
Charlemagne, Emperor, [295-298]
Charles V., King of Spain and Emperor of Germany, [190], [203], [268]
Charles, Prince of Wales (Charles I.), [48]
Charles Martel, Mayor of the Franks, [298]
Churriguera, Architect, [87]
Cicadas, [156]
Cid, The. Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, [61], [124-125], [140-143], [177], [202], [269-271]
Cies, Islas de, [101]
Clamores, River, [253]
Clausel, General, [163], [173]
Clavijo, Battle of, [85]
Climate, [129], [170], [182], [266-267], [272], [294]
Cole, General, [299]
Colonia, Juan de, Architect, [274]
Combarros, [71]
Communeros, Revolt of, [203-204], [268]
Constantino, Bridge, [76]
Corcuvion, [103]
Córdova, [85], [201], [295-296]
Cória, [235]
Corpus Christi, Festival of, [139], [143-146]
Cortes, Hernando, [223]
Coruña, [64], [89], [104-105], [108], [110]
Battle of, [92], [106-108], [111]
Costume, [49], [62-63], [65], [71], [109-110], [157-158], [175-176]
Courtship, [226-228]
Covadonga, [25], [33-37]
Battle of, [24-25], [34-37]
Nuestra Señora de, [24-25], [34], [37]
Craufurd, General, [214]
Cubos, [22], [58]
Cudillero, [118-121]
Cuenca, [255], [283]
Cuera, Sierra de, [30], [38-39]
Cuesta, Captain General, [213]
Cueva, Don Beltran de la, [259]
Cuidad Rodrigo, [162-163], [175]
Dancing, [40], [48], [108-109], [289]
De Arfe, Metal worker, [207]
Deva, River, [20-21], [28], [42]
Gorge, [22-23], [25-28], [42], [43], [298]
Dogs, [17-19], [216], [260]
Dorothea. See Quixote, Don.
Douro, Battle of the, [93], [214]
Drake, Sir Francis, [107]
Dubreton, General, [275]
Dueñas, [263-264]
Duero, River, [94], [141], [149], [259-260]
Valley, [137], [152-153], [176], [182], [211], [220], [257]
Dulcinea del Toboso. See Quixote, Don.
Ebro, River, [284-285], [287]
Edward, Prince of England (Edward I.), [267]
“The Black Prince”, [285]
El Burgo, Bridge, 107{304}
Eleanor of Castile, Queen of England, [267-268]
Electric Lighting, [109], [147]
El Padron, [64], [103]
Elviña, [106]
Elvira, Princess, [140]
Encina, Nuestra Señora de la, [73-74]
Eresma, River, [243-245], [248]
Esclavitud, Nuestra Señora de la, [103]
Escorial, [186-190], [240-242], [261]
Esla, River, [57], [131], [132-135], [263]
Estella, [291]
Estremadura, [175], [215-236]
Eudo, Duke of Aquitaine, [298]
Europa, Picos de, [20-21], [27-29], [30], [33], [161]
Felton, Sir Thomas, [285]
Ferdinand I. of Leon and Castile, [60-61], [140]
III. of Castile and Leon, [60], [202], [206]
of Aragon (The Catholic), [110], [150], [263-264]
and Isabella of Castile, “The Catholic Kings”, [150], [166], [181-182], [203], [263-264]
Ferrol, [108], [111]
Finistierra, Cape, [101]
Fishing Ports, [9-10], [19-20], [40-41], [100-101], [118-119]
Rivers, [38]
Fishwives, [98], [101], [119]
Flies, [31], [102]
Florinda (La Cava), [201]
Flowers (Wild). Broom, [224], [242];
Cactus, [221];
Cistus, [153], [224];
Hardhead, [183], [242];
Heather, [73], [102];
Poppy, [266]
Fountains, [79-81], [108], [186], [222], [239]
Foz, [112]
Francia, Peña de, [175]
Galicia, [15], [24], [62], [76-112], [140]
Gamarra Mayor, [287]
Ganelon, [295]
Garlic, [13], [180]
Gata, Sierra de, [175]
Gelmirez, Archbishop of Santiago, [84], [86]
Gerona, [111], [296]
Gigantes, [139], [143-145]
Gijon, [20], [35-36]
Gil Blas de Santillana. Birth-place, [19];
Captain Rolando, [72];
Dr Sangrado, [259-261];
Flight from Valladolid, [259-260];
Don Bernardo de Castel Blazo, [53];
at Salamanca, [166];
Imprisonment, [254-255];
at Toledo, [205];
Visit to Olivares, [149];
Liria, 254 note
Girard, General, [224]
Gonzalez, Count Fernando, [61], [269]
Gonzalo, Don Arias, [141-142]
Graham, General, [286-287]
Grédos, Sierra de, [161], [170], [173-174], [182], [211], [215], [221], 235{305}
Grenada, [255], [265]
Guadalete, Battle of the, [200]
Guadalupe, Monastery, [223], [235]
Sierra de, [211]
Guadarrama, Sierra de, [18], [155], [176], [182], [238], [256]
Puerto de, [184-185], [242-243]
Guadiana, River, [223], [225], [229]
Guardia Civil, [53-54], [183], [245]
Guerrilleros, [93-94], [111], [282]
Haro, [284]
Henrique IV. of Castile, [177], [250], [258]
Hercules (at Toledo), [199-201]
Hieronymo, Bishop of Zamora, [139]
Hill, General, [224], [286]
Howell, James, [48], [95], 206 note
Huesca, [296]
Illescas, [193]
Inns, [8-9], [25-27], [29], [46-48], [50], [69], [138-139], [184], [217-219], [226-227], [264-265]
Inquisition, [250-252], [261-263]
Isabella of Castile (The Catholic), [250], [252], [281].
See also Ferdinand.
Princess, [181]
Isidoro, San, [59-61], [208-209]
Jackson, Private, [136]
Jarama, River, [194]
Jerte, River, [216]
Jews, [200], [203], [261], [270]
Joseph Buonaparte, [162-163], [277], [286-288]
Jourdan, Marshal, [213]
Juan II. of Castile, [258], [281]
Prince of Spain, [181]
Juana, Queen of Spain, [182], [265]
Junot, Marshal, [68]
La Cañiza, [95-97]
Lacer, Caius Julius, Engineer, [231-232]
La Demanda, Sierra de, [152], [281-282]
La Granja, [244], [254]
La Hermida, [23]
La Mancha, [95]
Lampegia, [298]
Lapisse, General, [235]
Laredo, [10-11], [15]
La Robla, [130]
Las Huelgas, Convent, [267-268]
Las Rozas, [238]
Lefebre Desnouettes, General, [135]
Lena, [127-128]
Leon Province (Old Kingdom), [43], [45-76], [89],