ΑΥΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΗ
ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΣΤΩ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΝ Χ. Ρ. ϛ.
The said effendi not only civilly informed us of this stone, but when we had transcribed the words, he profered to send it after us to Smyrna; adding, that if it was any piece of sanctity, he was unwilling it should remain there to be trampled under foot.
Designing from hence for Durguthli, we continue our journey under the foot of Sipylus, which about two hours from the city ends in a stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising perpendicularly almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprizing, as we rode along under the foot of this hill, to observe a certain cliff of the rock, representing an exact nich and statue, with the due shape and proportion of an human body. For Sipylus being the seat of the transformation of the unhappy Niobe[22], there was ground of imagining, that we had either met with her statue, or with that which was the first occasion of the fable; at least it was not improbable, that this was the work of some antient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves in fashioning the natural rock into such a figure, as might preserve the tradition of this celebrated poetic fiction.
Not far from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our right hand, having the stream of the Hermus in view on the left; and at a large distance before us the snowy top of the mountain Tmolus. Our road now lay thro a verdant and delightful plain, inriched by many advantages of nature, and not negligently manured by the inhabitants. About the fourth hour of this day’s journey we passed a bridge, erected over a large river; which, as those of the country informed us, is now called Niphti, or Nymphe, and may probably be the Cryos mentioned by Pliny, as one of the streams that feed the Hermus[23]. From this bridge the road lies thro a less fertile plain, till within the neighbourhood of Durguthli it is again better cultivated, and appropriated to the production of cottons. Near our entrance into the town we cross a broad and sandy chanel, which in the winter season conveys no inconsiderable current into the Hermus. We had here no other to rely upon, than the accommodations of a public kane, where, after we had fixed our lodgings, we found that we had arrived in six hours from Magnesia; tho an hour is to be deducted for the rests, which we were obliged to make for the security of our mules.
Durguthli is a town purely of Turkish fabric, and therefore has nothing to entertain the curiosity of any traveler, besides the management of cotton wool; which is here prepared in great abundance, and so transmitted to the market of Smyrna. As to this we observed, that they first sift it from the dust and other refuse, which it contracts in gathering, in a large wicker wheel; after this they separate the wool from the cod, in which it grows; and at last they work it betwixt a wooden and iron roller, which spinning upon one another in a rapid motion draw in the wool, and leave the seed behind.
Walking up and down about the limits of our kane, we were accosted by a Turk, who spake good Italian. He had been many years a slave in Legorn, where he was a witness to the riches and splendor of Italy, and other parts of Christendom. This gave him occasion to express a just indignation against the haughty ignorance of the Turks; who, tho they want all advantages of art, and appearance of true magnificence, yet have the vanity to despise other nations, who enjoy both to a great perfection. In other discourse with an Armenian priest we were informed of a church, which by a peculiar grant of the Grand Signior that nation had newly founded in Durguthli. This was an instance, which seemed to us observable; for tho Christianity is tolerated in Turkey, yet they hold it inconsistent with their law to permit the erection of any new churches, and allow only the liberty of repairing old ones.
We parted in the close of the evening, and repaired in good health to our respective lodgings. But about two in the morning one of our company awaked under an indisposition, which by degrees grew into a severe and dangerous sickness; tho by timely opening a vein, and after that enjoying a little repose, he recovered to the great satisfaction of the whole company. However this discouraged us from proceeding, till another night’s rest should confirm his health. Being thus detained a day at Durguthli, we were informed of some antiquities to be seen among the Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town; whither when we had repaired, we found a curious piece of basso relievo, brought, as they said, from Sardis. But no ancient inscriptions appeared there, except these imperfect words on a marble tombstone.