We continue anchored at the same place, being all this day entirely becalmed. And the day following, the calm having changed into a contrary wind detained us still at the same anchor. But however disagreeable this interruption in the course of our voyage might prove to some others of the company, the leisure of those two days was to me very grateful. Nor could I esteem it any loss of time, but rather an advantage, on account of the favourable and unexpected opportunity it afforded me of visiting two so famous castles, together with the villages adjoining to them[61]. Going ashore therefore in the captain’s pinnace to the town on the Asian side (formerly called Abýdos[62], but by the Turks Eskí Natolia Hisar) with great pleasure I walked about the place, but found no footsteps of antiquity[63]. The town is large, but mean; yet famous for a curious sort of earthen ware finely glazed, which is made here, and vended in great quantities. The castle is intire, of a square figure, with bastions projecting at each corner, and with one side flanks the water on a level shore; where are to be seen betwixt twenty and thirty vast guns, such as perhaps are no where else to be found, except in some other parts of Turkey. They are of brass, and have a bore at least three quarters of a yard diameter; and are charged with stone bullets of the same dimensions, which lie at hand spherically cut. The charge of powder, as I was informed on the place by the barút agá of Smyrna, is an hundred and five okes. From Abýdos I crossed over in a small wherry to Sestos[64], that is, from Natolia to Rumeli Hisar, and in the way observed the art of the boatman in avoiding the force of the current, a circumstance mentioned by Strabo[65]. This town stands on a precipice, descending steeply towards the sea shore; and is better built, tho less, than Abýdos. It has a castle consisting of a triangular tower, enclosed within an high wall of this
figure, and that again with another triangular wall, all surrounded with a deep foss. In the same level with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the same or rather bigger size than those of Natolia Hisar; and by each lie great heaps of stones, cut spherically to the dimensions of each canon. In relation to this town of Sestos, and the tower of Leander, once adjoining to the shore a little above the town, I remembered that request of Musaeus:
Σὺ δ’ εἴποτε κεῖθι περήσεις,
Δίζεό μοι τινὰ πύργον[66].
April v.
This morning a fresh wind favouring us at south west we set sail by six a clock, and passing the forementioned castles, within a league on the European shore, arrive at the town Maitos, antiently Madytos[67], seated on a low land within a small recess of the sea, and inhabited intirely by Greeks. The campain on each side is delightful to the traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabitants; being for the most part of a level situation, and in the neighbourhood of the villages it possesses, well cultivated and distinguished into pastures. About three leagues from Maitos we view on the same shore two pleasant and well situated villages, by the name of the Lesser and Greater Galata. Thence about the distance of two leagues we arrive betwixt Lampsacus on the Asian, and Callipolis on the European shore; the former a small town, and the latter a city of no inconsiderable extent; so that now they have changed their fortune, and that character, which they bore in the time of Strabo[68]. About twelve leagues from Callipolis lies the island Marmora, exceeding high ground, abounding with rich veins of durable and pretious marble; the same of which has given it the name of Marmora, instead of the ancient Proconésus. Adjoining to this are two lesser isles, Kutali and Alonia, the latter eminent for the product of excellent wines. Betwixt these islands and the beautiful Thracian shore, which here graces the Propontis, we were advanced by a brisk and favourable gale at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now continuing our voyage, with the same auspicious wind, and hopes, if God permit, to arrive at Constantinople early by to morrow morning.
April vi.
Before ten last evening the wind having changed to our disadvantage, we find ourselves this morning but little advanced from Marmora; however by the benefit of turning to windward, we proceeded this day about the distance of ten leagues. Every other tack brought us near to the Thracian shore, and entertained us with a fair view of the most green and fertile campain I ever yet beheld. By the same means we enjoyed the opportunity of seeing the famous port and city of Heracléa, built behind a small eminence, which protends itself into the sea, and forms an haven on each side of the city. Not far from hence stands on the same shore the fair town of Selymbria; near which the night now overtakes us, and deprives us of that delicious prospect, which the whole day afforded us, of the feilds of Thrace. It was on this day, that captain Winter wanting his log line to be brought him from a chest in the great cabin, was not permitted by the barút agá to send any person down for it, by reason of his harém being there. At length he yeilded to let the captain’s son go, a child of about eight years of age.