April xiii.
From Comorwa we proceed in two hours and a half to Dobral, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called Cornibat, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From Dobral we begin to ascend the foot of Haemus, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called Challikcavák[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count Oetingh, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.
April xiv.
On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful Haemus, and then find our quarters ready to receive us at a Christian village, called Trágoe. And indeed all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from Adrianople, were intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of the Greek communion.
April xv.
We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in an hour’s time we arrive at Eskí Stambol; from whence the way, now leaving Haemus at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called Boklar. Mount Haemus being the limit, that divides Thracia from Bulgaria, or Moesia Inferior of the antients, we made this day’s journey in the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make it. The above mentioned Eskí Stambol is a name given by the Turks to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the Oescus Triballorum) which at the foot of Haemus shews the intire tract of two walls; the inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or Virgin Mother, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or Queen, was now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the abovementioned walls runs a small river from the Haemus, now called by the Italians Monte Argentato, and by the Turks Batkán.
April xvi.
Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from Trágoe to Arnoútcui; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.