May v.
Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village, where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of Transylvania and Valachia, it will be here proper to set down such general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.
This province was under the Romans from Trajan to Gallienus, or rather to Aurelian; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the remainder of the Romans hence into Moesia and Pannonia. When it became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst Moldavia, which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money. That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the Dutch, or Venetian lion dollars; with the quarts of Poland; and a small Saxon coin, here called bains, of which one hundred thirty two make a lion dollar. Justice is here performed according to the ancient laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which, as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time of peace.
The natives ordinarily call themselves Romans, and their province Tzerra Romanesca[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language, which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the character[116], they have in common with Moldavia; which two provinces, together with Transylvania, constituted the ancient Dacia, the two former Ripensis, and the last Mediterranea. The wines of this province, especially about Tergovist, are exquisite fine. The Valachian habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the Gospels and other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries, which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned, profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or porch, is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent corporeal image of God the Father, a thing here permitted against the professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.
May vi.
We proceed this day over the mountain, on a steep craggy rocky way, lined on each side with an dismal shade, and sometimes looking down into a frightful precipice. By half an hour after ten we arrive at the limits of the two provinces, which are distinguished by a wooden cross on the edge of the mountain, from whence the prospect begins to open into Transylvania. Here my Lord was saluted from the government of Transylvania by Count Michael Mikes, as well as from the magistrates of Cronstadt by their deputy, and at the same time attended by a troop of horse, with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon which the troop of Cosacks, which had hitherto guarded his Excellency from Tergovist, returned home. In one hour and an half from hence we descend the mountain, and at a narrow passage, where the river Bozza finds its passage out of the snowy hills into the adjoining plain, we arrive at the castle of Bran, a small fortress which defends this pass; where his Excellency was saluted, as he passed, with three different salvos of about twenty one guns. Within canon shot of this fort we find a fair set of huts, ready pitched for the reception of his Excellency, with a buttery, kitchen, and other accommodations, provided for his use by the abovesaid Count Mikes; who now undertook the care of the public allowance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as Hermanstadt.
May vii.
By six this morning we set forward from the castle of Bran, directing our course for Cronstadt, being now about two Hungarian miles, or twelve Italian, distant from it. In half an hour his Excellency was met by major general Glychensberg, governor of the forces at Cronstadt and the parts adjoining; together with lieutenant colonel Graven of the regiment of general Rabutin. The same civility he received from the judge and other magistrates of the city, with whom, and the numerous retinue which came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of a mile long. In the mean time our road lay thro that spot of ground, on which general Heusler was defeated, and made prisoner by Count Tekely in the year sixteen hundred and ninety; as also thro the town of Rosnaw, lying in the middle betwixt Bran and Cronstadt, where there is a considerable castle, which likewise saluted his Excellency, as he passed, with three repeated salvos. About eleven a clock we enter the city, the castle repeating continual salvos, which we find all in arms, and the streets lined on both sides with musqueteers, as also the whole soldiery drawn up in order in the market place. In this is the house of general Glychensberg, where his Excellency was received with all marks of respect and honour, and in an hour’s time invited to a noble entertainment. After diner, by order of Count Mikes, we were attended to our several stations, where a Transylvanian gentleman was appointed to act as commissary, or proveditóre, in each respective quarter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myself were favoured with the company and attendance of one Lodislaus Doeza, a civil, intelligent, and well behaved gentleman of the Helvetian confession. And this afternoon Mr. Paget and I walked up the castle hill, from whence we had a prospect of the city, which is almost triangular, enclosed with a stone wall, situated in a narrow vale, under an high snowy clift of mountains, but on one side looking towards a level and fruitful plain. It is surrounded with three distinct suburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in one part of these suburbs, which runs more within the hills, stands an handsome Valachian church. A dreadful fire about fourteen years since laid the whole town in ashes, and at the same time utterly consumed the library of the school, which is here instituted for teaching of philosophy and theology. The same calamity almost ruined the cathedral church, of which now nothing but the outward case remains to testify its former grandeur; the roof, which was of arched stone, being now only covered with boards.
The general religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church above mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies, who enjoy considerable rents from the thirteen parishes of the district of Cronstadt, which are supplied by them. The ecclesiastical government of the whole district is partly in this chapter, and partly in the superintendent of Cronstadt; which office is sometimes distinct, but for the most part held together with the deanry; and from this superintendent appeals lie to the bishop of the whole province of Transylvania.