We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to Hatwan, thro the same plain, along the foss of an antient Roman camp. The hills of Gyongyóssi are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which four Hungarian miles from Arokszalles is the famous gold mine of Kremnytz, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same neighbourhood. Hatwan was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of Solmes, grand master to the King of the Romans. The Emperor constantly employs five hundred labourers in the mines of Kremnytz, tho of late years they are said to fail. At Hatwan, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of burying their corn in holes under ground, as Hirtius remarks of the Africans[133].
June xii.
At Hatwan we immediately cross the small river Zagywa, and thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and pastures, valleys and hills, to Kerepes; where at a neat German house his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to Pest. At his entry here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of Buda, and lodged at the Fountain inne. Pest is now a small but compact city, intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late sieges of Buda. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating on the banks of the Danube, which completes the remaining circuit of the city. There are still extant three or four minarées of Turkish mosques, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the Trinity; a figure as common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.
June xiii.
This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself an opportunity of passing over to Buda on a flying bridge, which is maintained by the city Pest. The famous city of Buda is the capital of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of Solymán the Great; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight. And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses, especially those of the Rascian and Water Town, are again handsomely rebuilt. That, which is called the Upper Town, is likewise begining to be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the Danube, which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces, on which stands, what is called the Upper Town. This on the N. W. end has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the Rascian, and that on the S. E the Water Town. The latter of these is larger, and much better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned, but likewise betwixt the Danube and a great part of the hill, on which the wall and Upper Town is built. Just beyond the Rascian Town is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended, at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall and castle of Buda; the present remains of which were shewn us this morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the arms of Matthias Corvinus. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle. The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks. The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took from the Water Town of old Buda, or Sicambria of the Romans, about an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city Pest, which are supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the Rascian Town.
At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the camera Budensis, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues, as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at Buda and Pest, under General Pefferhoft, who was now gone to demolish the fortifications of Erla; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of Buda exactly resembles that of Bourdeaux, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl of Nottingham, has began to be imported into England, by the way of Breslaw.
June xiv.
Early this morning we depart from Buda, when his Excellency was again saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to Biéske; a village where the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the parish church last year by the Romanists.
June xv.
Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to Koes, thro a continued wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers, particularly the fraxinella; to say nothing of the damask roses, hyacinths, barbaréae, lilia convallium, and some others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.