November xxix.
Leaving Clamston, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we pass under the walls of Launa, and there cross the Egra by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country. From thence we come to Bitin, the estate of Prince Lobcowitz, where we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to Deplitz, the estate and seat of Count Clery, remarkable for an hot bath.
November xxx.
His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of Framstein, Friburg (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the electors of Saxony) Waltheim, Coldick, Walcowitz, and so to Leipsick. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in order to see Dresden. With this intent I take a post waggon from Deplitz to Peterswaldt, the distance of two miles, in which I pass the hill of Kaiasberg. From Peterswaldt I take a new post, and soon after I have left the town pass the boundary of Bohemia and Saxony; and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from Pirn, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon the banks of the Elbe, along which I ride about half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about five a clock at Dresden, being in all six miles from Deplitz. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the house of one Leonard Serert, betwixt the two market places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from Peterswaldt to Dresden is very agreable, being interspersed with woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than those of Bohemia; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin, but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to their Lords, as in Moravia.
December i.
I continue at Dresden this and the three following days, to observe the curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands upon the Elbe, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that of Prague, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called Old Dresden, the residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. Dresden was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present Elector was chosen King of Poland. However it is the ordinary seat both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the Prince of Furstemberg, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, St. Cross, Sta. Sophia, and the chapel of the court. St. Cross is a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and painting in fresco, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the street, and represents a Roman triumph. The gardens are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but what obscures every thing else in Dresden, and perhaps all others of the same kind in Germany, is the kunstkammer, with the arsenal, and stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue. On the bridge at Dresden is erected a curious brass crucifix, not inferior to that of Prague in the workmanship, but far exceeding it in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious worship.
December iv.
At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage in the ordinary post chaise for Leipsick, paying four florins for the space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to Misten, and there cross the Elbe over a large covered bridge. The benefit of the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town, particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to Wurzen, where we dine; and then ferrying over the Muldaw, now a large and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day, we arrive at Leipsick about five a clock in the afternoon, where I provide myself with a private lodging.
December vi.
This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at Leipsick by eleven a clock, and lodge at the Golden hen in the high street, to which place I therefore now remove myself.