The town is pleasantly seated on the river Ocker, in a place not so intirely level as the other parts of Lower Saxony, but enjoying a variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from Leipsick to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets, tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in sculpture, representing the Virgin, and other religious figures; and under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants. For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this place (which alone is properly Wolfembutel) is just without the wall of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated library, founded by Christianus Augustus, the father of this Prince. It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting of eight volumes in folio, with his own hand. The present librarian is the famous Mr. Leibnitz, who at this time did not reside upon the place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me the following curiosities. A collection of printed Bibles, the largest and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript English Bible in folio, which seems very antient and begins thus: In the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee. At the bottom of the first page is wrote Lumley in later characters. A manuscript Greek Testament; and two printed copies, one of Aldus and the other at Hagenoa, in which is wanting that famous testimony of St. John concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An antient manuscript of St. Jerome’s Bible, written about four hundred years since, by one who subscribes himself Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus; and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a calf. A manuscript Aethiopic Testament, given by father Kircher to the founder of the library. A copy of the Psalms, written in those characters, which are called Ciceroniani and Cyprianici. A voluminous collection of modern Histories, in four hundred manuscript volumes in folio; among which are thirteen called Chroniques d’Angleterre. The whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at Prague. A fair Herbal, with each flower delineated in its proper colours. A roll of the Pentateuch, and a vail now used by the Jews in reading the Law. Several reliques of Luther, as his spoon, drinking glass, leaden inkbottle, and a Letter in his own hand to one of his contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in these words: Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter. Two books written by Prince Christian himself, founder of the library: one De ludo scacchia, in the German language; the other in folio, called Cryptographia, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the title of which he calls himself Gustavus Selenus, meaning Augustus Luneburgicus. A fair edition of the vulgate Latin Bible by Aldus at Venice, which reads in Genesis iii. 15, Ipsum conteret caput tuum, instead of the usual ipsa.
The present Duke Antonius Ulricus, and his brother Rudolphus Augustus, who resides at Brunswick, have the title of Brunswick and Lunenburg in common with their eldest brother the Duke of Zell, and their nephew the Duke of Hanover. But their proper government is the territory of Brunswick and Wolfembutel which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. Rudolphus is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage, insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to Hamburg where he walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But Antonius is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons; of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and uncle Rudolphus.
December xxiii.
This morning I take the post waggon for Brunswick, which is seated on the same river as Wolfembutel, in a watry plain, having a large extent, but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified, but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannot be imitated at Wolfembutel, tho it is so very near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of Wolfembutel be equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which is made of raw meat and spices.
At three a clock I depart for Hanover by the way of Peine, with an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this accident. By twelve a clock we reach Peine, and after half an hour’s refreshment the Italian and I proceed for Hanover, thro a wide and watry common.
December xxiv.
By eight a clock this morning I arrive at Hanover, where I wait on Mr. Cresset, and his chaplain Mr. Lombard. And being invited by the former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for Heldesheim to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.
December xxv.
Tho this was Christmas day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of the Princess Dowager Sophía, who did me the honour to discourse with me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the Mariage forcé of Moliere; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.