The Coleur de Rose—The Piasa—The Indian Legend—Caverns—Human Remains—The Illinois—Characteristic Features—The Canal—The Banks and Bottoms—Poisonous Exhalations—Scenes on the Illinois—The "Military Bounty Tract"—Cape au Gris—Old French Village—River Villages—Pekin—"An Unco Sight"—Genius of the Bacchanal—A "Monkey Show"—Nomenclature of Towns—The Indian Names [122]

X

An Emigrant Farmer—An Enthusiast—Peoria—The Old Village and the New—Early History—Exile of the French—Fort Clarke—Indian Hostilities—The Modern Village—Site—Advantages—Prospects—Lake Pinatahwee—Fish—The Bluffs and Prairie—A Military Spectacle—The "Helen Mar"—Horrors of Steam!—A Bivouac—The Dragoon Corps—Military [xii] Courtesy—"Starved Rock"—The Legend—Remains—Shells—Intrenchments—Music—The Moonlight Serenade—A Reminiscence [132]

XI

Delay—"A Horse!"—Early French Immigration in the West—The Villages of the Wilderness—St. Louis—Venerable Aspect—Site of the City—A French Village City—South St. Louis—The Old Chateaux—The Founding of the City—The Footprints in the Rock—The First House—Name of City—Decease of the Founders—Early Annals—Administration of St. Ange—The Common Field—Cession and Recession—"L'Annee du Grand Coup"—"L'Annee des Grandes Eaux"—Keel-boat Commerce—The Robbers Culbert and Magilbray—"L'Annee des Bateaux"—The First Steamboat at St. Louis—Wonder of the Indians—Opposition to Improvement—Plan of St. Louis—A View—Spanish Fortifications—The Ancient Mounds—Position—Number—Magnitude—Outlines—Arrangement—Character—Neglect—Moral Interest—Origin—The Argument of Analogy [142]

XII

View from the "Big Mound" at St. Louis—The Sand-bar—The Remedy—The "Floating Dry-dock"—The Western Suburbs—Country Seats—Game—Lakes—Public Edifices—Catholic Religion—"Cathedral of St. Luke"—Site—Dimensions—Peal of Bells—Porch—The Interior—Columns—Window Transparencies—The Effect—The Sanctuary—Galleries—Altar-piece—Altar and Tabernacle—Chapels—Paintings—Lower Chapel—St. Louis University—Medical School—The Chapel—Paintings—Library—Ponderous Volumes—Philosophical Apparatus—The Pupils [160]

XIII

An Excursion of Pleasure—A fine Afternoon—Our Party—The Bridal Pair—South St. Louis—Advantages for Manufactures—Quarries—Farmhouses—The "Eagle Powder-works"—Explosion—The Bride—A Steeple-chase—A Descent—The Arsenal—Grounds—Structures—Esplanade—Ordnance—Warlike Aspect—Carondelet—Sleepy-Hollow—River-reach [xiii]—Time Departed—Inhabitants—Structures—Gardens—Orchards—Cabarets—The Catholic Church—Altar-piece—Paintings—Missal—Crucifix—Evergreens—Deaf and Dumb Asylum—Distrust of Villagers—Jefferson Barracks—Site—Extent—Buildings—View from the Terrace—The Burial Grounds—The Cholera—Design of the Barracks—Corps de Reserve—A remarkable Cavern—Our Guide—Situation of Cave—Entrance—Exploration—Grotesque Shapes—A Foot—Boat—Coffin in Stone—The Bats—Rivière des Pères—An Ancient Cemetery—Antiquities—The Jesuit Settlers—Sulphur Spring—A Cavern—A Ruin [170]

XIV