Great care appears to be taken of the remains of the dead—some are placed in tombs of stone, neatly built and plastered, having a small wicker-work house placed in the centre—others are deposited in a common grave, having a basket-work roof which is placed there to protect them from wild beasts. The inhabitants are civil, but sometimes troublesome in approaching too near—they seem desirous of handling every part of the dress—but the sad condition they are in, makes it necessary frequently to use coercive measures to keep them at a wholesome distance. The naval button, with an eagle and an anchor on it, demands universal admiration. A few small junks are built of wood and many are repaired at Vunglam.
FISHING-BOATS.
Trees of a large growth are very scarce, being cut away to the tops of the highest hills; they are therefore obliged to resort further inland for ship-timber; a few planks of forty feet in length and about four inches in thickness, of a very hard wood, were seen in the ship-yards, sawed out quite roughly. Temples or houses for religious worship and priests, there are none; they are said to be prone to superstitious rites—this assertion has been fully confirmed in many instances.
In passing along between the village of Vunglam and the beach, I saw a shed erected, having within it some characters written on a board resembling the Chinese, but being blended so much together, they could not be understood; the picture of a frightful object was also there. A Chinese, who was with us, said it was placed there to guard against evil spirits, which greatly infested that place. In another part of the village was erected a similar shed, under which was a board, on which was inscribed in Chinese characters, only the word God, it therefore reminded me at once of what St. Paul found written on an altar at Athens, “To the unknown God.” I suppose those more refined barbarians and these poor Cochin-Chinese, are alike ignorant of Him who made and governs all things. Traversing the beach near Vung-chow, we saw a small cell erected on posts, in the middle of a grove of trees; looking into it, we found two chalk-fish painted green, suspended from the roof, and some pots containing half-burnt joss-sticks. When they wish for success in fishing, offerings are made to the presiding Deity. Great quantities of sea-shells were scattered about the place, and fires were evidently frequently made; thus they present the essence of their feasts only to the Neptunian Deity, while the pious devotee devours the substance. In another similar place about four miles from thence, we found another cell or box erected on posts, but it was more neatly constructed—in it were two paintings in water colours, evidently Chinese, each having one large and two small female figures; before them were half-burnt incense rods and on one side a horse’s head wrapped in a cloth, which, on opening, we found filled with maggots: a great number of small green glazed pots were scattered about.
Tigers abound throughout the country: a few nights since one came into the village of Vunglam, and carried off into the jungle a good-sized pig. The woods abound with wild hogs, goats, deer, peacocks, &c., &c., and the wild elephant is also abundant in the forests. About two miles from hence is a large barrack, containing a number of soldiers: the only arm I have yet seen them to possess is a very long spear, having a small flag or tassel attached to it. I was introduced to an old man, the commander of two thousand, the other day; himself and attendants were on horses of a small size, or rather ponies; they sat on saddles of a peculiar construction, the hinder part being the lowest; the saddle-cloth being fancifully painted, a rope used instead of a bit and bridle, and a string of small ornamented bells placed around the neck: the commander was dressed in a long robe of blue satin, and wore a black crape turban. He endeavoured to show every civility by dismounting and walking.
MANDARINS’ HOUSE.
It has been heretofore stated, that, after repeated requests, we returned the ceremonious calls of two of the mandarins. On approaching the house, towards the outer gate, we found twelve long spears, bearing small flags, placed perpendicularly in the ground, in two lines. A wattled fence separated the dwelling from the beach: in passing through the outward entrance, we found a short neat avenue, of the graceful areca-palm, intertwined with the piper-betel leaf. We then passed through the inner entrance to the court-yard, which was in neat order. The mandarins received us with much politeness: a temporary arbour had been erected, and a table spread, having on it rice-wine, cakes, sweetmeats, fruits—tea being also served. At each end of the arbour, were suspended, from the roof, two elegantly embroidered cloths, having silk tassels and worked lappels: Chinese characters were wrought on them, the purport of which could not be ascertained, as they were so much blended together. Two brass tripods, for burning incense, were placed on the table, ornamented with a lion couchant, from the mouth of which and the open-work cover, issued the grateful perfume of the kinnam or calembac, which was kept well replenished. Paper cigars, pipes, and areca, completed the regale. The house was of brick, with a neat tiled roof. Flowers, in pots, were neatly arranged around the court-yard.
Many of the natives stood looking on, and behaved with perfect propriety. The mandarin, or chief of the village of Vung-lam, who paid us the first visit on our arrival, was in attendance, standing at my left hand, and served us, in common with the interpreters. The mandarins were dressed in their robes of ceremony. Three houses occupied as many sides of the court-yard. The mandarins and guards attended us to our boats.
When the discussion was going on relative to the letter to the minister, which occupied many hours, they finally approved of every sentence, and every word, except “friendly,” which they thought was rather too familiar a word to be used between nations; and therefore they proposed substituting the word “neighbourly,” which would read, “neighbourly intercourse.” Seeing that I was rather amused at the proposed alteration, they were desirous of knowing the cause. Being told, that, as we lived some twenty thousand miles apart, we could not hold a very neighbourly intercourse, they were much amused by the gross blunder committed by their ignorance, and replied, it was very true, and therefore they would be satisfied with the word friendly, as proposed by me. They were not aware, however, of the distance between the two countries, neither did they know the situation of North America, but supposed it to be in Europe, as we afterward ascertained.
When they take leave, they always place our right hand between theirs, bow their heads very slowly, and as low down as possible.